DSXH43EV0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Unplug power. Take the top off. Take front off, unplug the two wire connections. Undo belt from back access. Pull up on drum and remove. Unscrew 4 screws that hold on the element housing, remove. Reverse steps to put back together.

We unlatched the top of the dryer by pushing a screwdriver under the two areas where there were metal clips holding it down. We then removed the yellow clip screwed onto the top frame. We removed the front frame of the dryer by unscrewing the two screws holding the front frame on--one on either side. We didn't undo the wiring to the controls, we just kind of pivoted the front aside. We pulled the drum out from the plastic holder attached to the back of the dryer frame also unwinding the belt encircling the drum. Then we unscrewed the 3 screws holding the bearing to the back of the drum. We removed the plastic that had held the bearing by undoing the screws to the back of the frame. We installed the new bearing by screwing it to the back of the drum with 3 screws. We installed the plastic holder to the back of the frame by 2 screws and put the little ball bearing in. We used the grease that came with the kit to grease up the plastic where it held the big bearing attached to the back of the drum and inserted the drum back into the body of the dryer frame, pushing the bearing into the plastic holder. The hard part was getting the belt back around the drum and through the pulley on the motor that holds the belt. When that was accomplished, we put the yellow plastic holder back on the front frame with the screws and put the front back on after thoroughly cleaning the inside bottom area where there was a lot of lint. Then we snapped the top back into place.

Troubleshooting was the hardest thing to do in this repair. the first thing I found wrong was the thermal overload was bad. That was easy to replace since that is on top of the housing for the heating coils and easy to reach. Only 2 screws hold it in place. Once I replaced that the dryer would start but, the temperature was off the chart. Now I know why that part broke. The control Thermostat was a little harder. That is held in by 2 screws but it is in an awkward place. I replace the 2 slotted screws with nut driver type screw which made it easier to place the screws in such a small area. Once the control thermostat was replaced the dryer worked great

The part arrived in only 3 days and I didn't even pay for express shipping!

Once I popped the top lid off, and removed the two screws holding the front on it was a breeze from there. Simply take the drive belt off by loosening the spring loaded tensioner on the bottom, lift entire drum slightly up and then out. Remove the screws to replace bearing on rear of drum (4) and the screws that hold the bushing assembly in place (2). Reverse the process and you will be up and running in no time at all.

I was about to buy an ew washer and dryer set, but thanks to PartSelect.com, i saved over $1000!

Removed front and top panals to dryer. Installed belt over the drum. opened back air vent panal and installed belt to pully. Reinstalled back top and front panals. Done.

Watch the videos for replacing the belt. The one by Kenmore is the most accurate even though it isn't GE -- the mechanisms are the same. Here is the link to the one I found most helpful: https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=G2wTmfurT5o

First: You don't need to pull the washer/dryer out at all. Leave it in place. You can put the belt around the drive shaft and get the tension pully in place by feel and inspect your work with a flasklight,

Second: There is absolutely no reason to spend $70 on a rubber belt. Other places sell it as cheaply as 10 dollars. Shop around -- the actual part is not at all impressive and should not be priced this high.

Small piece of metal still on stub from old knob which I removed with my hand and then pushed the new knob onto the stub. Extremely simple. Happy there is a place to order a needed part.

Take the top off and front off and disconnect the belt and lift the drum out and there it is . Easy and alot cheaper then new dryer and works like new .

It took about 20 minutes, first I popped the top off using a flat screwdriver in my leatherman and removed the wires on the door switch then two screws holding the front on, and then I removed the drum which took a little longer because the belt tensioner was difficult to release because of limited space. Removed old bearing (ball and socket) and replaced with new one. I then reassembled in reverse order. Working great. . .

This was done to a washer/dryer that is in a closet and was worked on in place and not removed so it was all done through the front. Its a good idea to vacuum the inside out before putting it all back together. 1.Remove all of the screws that hold down the top of the dryer and remove top. 2. Remove the front slanted panel below the controls then Remove the two small black screws holding the plastic inserts on the left and right sides of the controls panel plus the two silver screws that will allow it to drop so that you can access the tabs that hold the front section on. 3. Remove screws holding the front section with the door on. The last two will be tabs at bottom that were hidden by control panel. Unplug connector and remove front. 4. Note how belt is positioned around motor and tensioner before removing belt.(just push tensioner until belt is loose enough to slide off of drum to remove belt). 5.Slide out drum and remove old bearing and replace with new one. Be especially careful tightening the three screws that attach the bearing as they are easy to strip. 6. To remove the bushing at the back of the dryer you will remove the two screws. but you will need to hold the clip on the back of the dryer or it will drop when the screws are removed. When re-installing MAKE SURE not to lose your ball bearing that the drum bearing will rest against. I used a strong small magnet to hold the ball bearing against the back of the nylon cradle bushing so I wouldn't lose it when re-installing the bushing and it worked great. Once the nylon bushing was back in place I lubed it thoroughly and put everything back in reverse order. I usually would not fill out one of these do-it-yourself forms but the instructions that are already listed with this part are completely different from what I encountered up to the actual bearing and bushing replacement. Hope this helps.

Screwed new bulb in socket

Remove the burned out bulb and install the new light bulb.

removed the bulb from the package unscrewed the old bulb & screwed in the new bulb.

very simple my husband put it on in no time

Depending on the condition of the bearing there are two methods described here to change the bearing, the first (and easiest) is if the bearing saddle was not damaged to the point of not allowing the bearing to lift out of it and the second is for when the saddle is damaged.
There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.

Parts Needed
Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease.
Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.

Tools needed:
8mm open/box wrench
good philips head screwdriver
a stubby philips screwdriver
putty knife or wide flat screwdriver
some duct tape

ACCESS

First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed.
Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner.
remove the panel and set it out of the way.
Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into.
On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel.
Set this out of the way too.

REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR

The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom.
Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.

At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace.
Install procedures will be listed below.

REMOVING DRUM

FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy.
Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum.
Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.

FOR DAMAGED SADDLE

If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job.
First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside.
Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt.
This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to.
Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system.
Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi