DWSR483GB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I went to replace all four of the drum slides but in the process of doing this, found out that the whole of the top support had been rubbed away! I therefore ordered a replacement top support and replaced it per the instructions in the PartSelect webpage and from the youtube demonstration and completed the repair. I had a little trouble with getting the top support installed, but by jiggling it around and persistence I was able to complete the repair. The help I received on the webpage and video were invaluable! Thank you to PartSelect and to the other users for all your help!!

This is the 2nd time we had to replace the slides. Not a big deal. Removed the top & front of the dyer and replaced the new slides. It's also a good time to vacuum out the inside while you have it apart. Be advised.... Get your tools ready. You'll be receiving your parts quickly. Couldn't believe how fast they arrived!

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

Unscrew the top panel parts three screws. Then another three or six screws to get to the dryer front which needs only to lift straight up about two inches. Pull back slightly and replace the teflon slides. To replace the slides they lay on a tiny plastic pin and slightly bend into the slot to hold them in place. Reseat the dryer drum. Reverse the process to make it like new. From the time you start hearing the dryer squeak, BE CERTAIN to replace these within a week or two (depending on usage.)Otherwise, you may wear out the housing where the teflon would rest. If that happens, you will be out more money to replace the housing and a lot more time to install. Been there and done that. Trust me.

Followed instructions shown in online video. Took back off and located timer. Transferred wires from old timer to new timer to not misconnect them. Only problem was twisting and removing old timer. On video tech twisted it off by hand. With factory installed timer that was impossible. Required the use of pliers. Twisting the new timer on was easy by hand. All in all the most time expended was in getting the tools necessary.

The clothes would get caught where the drum slide should be (it was almost totally worn down) and would leave black marks. I watched Parts Select youtube video. Bought the parts needed from Parts Select. They arrived within a couple of days. I replaced the 2 drum slides and no more getting caught. Took about 20 minutes.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

Originally ordered heating element kit, but decided to replace drum slides and "o"-ring while the dryer was dis-assembled.Replacing the dryer elements was relatively easy-just follow instructions. Replacing the slides and o-ring was very easy, just clip in place. The dryer vent was almost totally clogged and probably the cause of most problems. This took longer than all mechanical repairs as I have a long dryer vent. I suggest cleaning the dryer vent regularly to avoid problem. I used a 4" circular brush and cordless drill to clean the duct. If you have not cleaned your vent in 2-3 years, you will be amazed at the amount of lint build-up. I was very pleased with the price of parts and customer service at Parts-Select, estimate I saved approximately $250-300.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

Checked all thermostats, they were good. Circuit was getting 220 vac. Eventually found fuse in the back near the heating element, same was bad. By-passed same, and when we did, the timer Popped & arched !. Not sure why. Motor protectrion fuse found to be good. Heating elements good. Fuse was the only bad part found, never figured out what caused it to blow. Appliance was taken away after purchase of new one. Problem not found or resolved by self diagnostics. Originally the exhaust duct was somewhat clogged with lint, but not severely.