DPSB513GB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!

Your instructions were execellent
Problem is solve
Thank you

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

I went to replace all four of the drum slides but in the process of doing this, found out that the whole of the top support had been rubbed away! I therefore ordered a replacement top support and replaced it per the instructions in the PartSelect webpage and from the youtube demonstration and completed the repair. I had a little trouble with getting the top support installed, but by jiggling it around and persistence I was able to complete the repair. The help I received on the webpage and video were invaluable! Thank you to PartSelect and to the other users for all your help!!

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

Followed the Part Select video instructions which made the repair really easy!! Thanks for a job well done! ALSO.. the drum wobble was not caused by worn slides and felt. There are three screws holding the drum axle flange. Two of them fell out leaving the drum to flop about as it rotated. So we scavenged some screws from elsewhere on the dryer and problem solved. Once again.. thanks to Part Select for great instructional videos and great customer service ordering parts.

Originally ordered heating element kit, but decided to replace drum slides and "o"-ring while the dryer was dis-assembled.Replacing the dryer elements was relatively easy-just follow instructions. Replacing the slides and o-ring was very easy, just clip in place. The dryer vent was almost totally clogged and probably the cause of most problems. This took longer than all mechanical repairs as I have a long dryer vent. I suggest cleaning the dryer vent regularly to avoid problem. I used a 4" circular brush and cordless drill to clean the duct. If you have not cleaned your vent in 2-3 years, you will be amazed at the amount of lint build-up. I was very pleased with the price of parts and customer service at Parts-Select, estimate I saved approximately $250-300.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

To get inside the dryer in this model is extreemly difficult. I had to remove the side panel. In order to do this I needed to take off the screws on the back cover side where I needed to replace the cord. Then I needed to remove the screws to take off the top cover, front door, rear panel, trim switch, and end cap. I also had to remove the front door. After that I could tak off the side panel and change the cord.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

To get to where the drum slides go you have to first remove the dryer top. Then you have to remove the two screws that hold the dryer front/door. Found inside the dryer about an inch down on both sides. Be careful because it will fall off. Lower carefully as there is an electric hook-up on the bottom of the door. On the door top are the brackets that the slides slip into. My dryer has 4 slides. Sold individually for some reason. You are done except for re-assembly. Slip dryer drum back on door, press the front until you hear it click back together. Put screws back in and top back on. You are done and no more screeching!

The only tool used was a phillips head screwdriver. I removed two screws to lift the lid and two more screws to free the front panel, slid off the front panel, and had direct access to all 4 slides, replaced, reassembled, and good as new.

follow the video, and in no time fix and ran smooth, like brand new, love this website, fast and reliable