DWSR405EB2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

After reading a slew of scenarios that sounded exactly like my situation, I decided that the logical thing to do was give it a go myself. Everyone mentioned how simple it was--pop off the cover, remove wires, reconnect wires to new starter, and boom--up and running. A $22 part (that came VERY quickly) vs a min $100 repair person house call--and who knows if they would have taken me down that path we all know too well..."well, it's a complicated problem and will need blah, blah, blah, and $$$. Even my wife was impressed at how I "diagnosed" AND fixed the problem easy, quickly, and for a $22 part! Very pleased (with myself, too)!

very simple , unplug dryer and unhook the back of the top of dryer using a screwdriver on 6 screws. unhook clip to the rotary starter switch and unhook the three pronged plugs that go to the starter switch. replace new one that snaps into place, plug back in the three wires. screw the back of the dryer back on and your done. 6 minute job that saves you 40-50+ dollars for a repair man plus the extra money they mark up the parts

Unscrewed screws took off new parts and replaced with new parts and put back together. Works great now! No Noise!

Actualy finding the square bit driver was the hardest part of the ordeal.. After that simply removed back panel (3 Screws) removed the existing switch, removed the three wires that went to switch, reinstalled them on new switch, reinstalled new switch into housing and replaced bac panel. Couldnt get any easier! Total time 5 minutes. ...No Brainer!

Pulled front panel off, popped off the old switch, popped on the new switch. Good to go.

I simply removed the switch and matched the pole numbers to the new switch eventhough the new switch had two extra poles. The switch replacement was straightforward and worked very well.

I arrive home to the dreaded news, "The dryer is broken, I simply turned it on and smelled smoke!"
I replied "What unbreakable item did you break today?"
She showed me the dryer, we did a sniff test, removed the front control panel and determined it was probably the start switch. We took a shot, went online and ordered the part required from the best source of information that we could find, partselect.com.
The part arrived within two days and we installed it within minutes of its' arrival and it only took about 10 minutes. Plugged it in and we are back in business. This beats even the Maytag repair man!

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

Unscrew the top panel parts three screws. Then another three or six screws to get to the dryer front which needs only to lift straight up about two inches. Pull back slightly and replace the teflon slides. To replace the slides they lay on a tiny plastic pin and slightly bend into the slot to hold them in place. Reseat the dryer drum. Reverse the process to make it like new. From the time you start hearing the dryer squeak, BE CERTAIN to replace these within a week or two (depending on usage.)Otherwise, you may wear out the housing where the teflon would rest. If that happens, you will be out more money to replace the housing and a lot more time to install. Been there and done that. Trust me.

removed the top back panel ,(6 phillips head screws,)remove knob, (pulls off)the switch requires about a quarter turn to remove. Remove wires from old switch. They just unplug. Plug onto new switch, reinstall switch and good to go.Reinstall knob. Really easy. The hard part for me was leaning over the dryer from the front because I did not want to pull away from wall too far and have to worry about reinstalling dryer vent duct. I had to work in tight area.If I could have gotten behind the dryer, the whole operation would have taken about 10 minutes.Very easy to change.