DPSB519EB0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

It was as easy as the repair film said it was . But after spending the money for the upper and lower baring seals I put it all back together and the motor started making a loud noise ? I took the drum and everything out and started the motor without the drum just the motor was running and the danged motor is going out now !I checked the price of a new motor its not to bad but with all of the parts I have put in this thing I could have paid part of what it would have cost for a new dryer ! I put it all back together and hope it last long enough to at least recoup some of what I have spent ,But the new parts work good !

1) Disconnect power supply. 2) Open dryer door to find and remove two screws through dryer top. 3) Proceed to lift front dryer top panel and tap rear of dryer top with hand to left to disengage tabs and remove dryer top completely. 4) Remove two screws through front panel. 5) Gently lift dryer front panel from base tabs to partial remove panel (careful of wires which remain connected) - pivot front panel to left with wires connected. 6) lift dryer barrel with left hand / reach under barrel with right hand to release belt from tensioner pulley (very easy one-hand maneuver). pull dryer barrel belt off tensioner pulley towards you, remove belt from motor pulley below. 7) lift/pull and remove dryer barrel and belt (flex side panels). 8) take picture of wire connection locations on heating element and remove wires from tabs two locations / 3 wires. 9) remove sensors 3 locations. 10) remove heating element and housing. 11) install new heating element / housing and reverse process. .....tip; belt tensioner pulley was biggest challenge at first because it was hard to see how it all worked and reach. once i realized i could force / lift the barrel up to gain better access it was much easier than trying to fit my arm through the one large available hole at bottom right (when looking at the unit). the tensioner pulley is opposite side (left when facing) and you would have to reach over the exhaust, etc.

Before removing the old part,took photo with my phone camera to document the color wires hook up. Screwed in the new part and hooked up the color coded wires using the photo as reference. I was surprised how easy it was. Thanks. Partselect gave me fast shipping, cheap price and great customer service.

Followed the Part Select video instructions which made the repair really easy!! Thanks for a job well done! ALSO.. the drum wobble was not caused by worn slides and felt. There are three screws holding the drum axle flange. Two of them fell out leaving the drum to flop about as it rotated. So we scavenged some screws from elsewhere on the dryer and problem solved. Once again.. thanks to Part Select for great instructional videos and great customer service ordering parts.

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

I opened the unit by removing the two screws over the door, lifting the top (careful not to break the plastic tabs connecting it in the rear to the electronic control panel), then removing the two screws securing the front so I could slide the drum forward and out (hoisting by the belt, bending the sides out slightly). I tested the heating elements for continuity, and tested the two thermostats on the left and right of the heating element for continuity. I found the wiring diagram in the control panel with the specs for the thermistors, which said they should read about 100 kOhm at room temperature. The two on the heating element were OK, but the thermistor on the back of the plastic output box read only about 6 kOhm. After ordering and installing the replacement, it took about 15 minutes to put the drum back in, re-thread the belt, and close the unit back up (thanks to some helpful videos on YouTube). This was the second time this thermistor failed! The first time was under warranty.