HTDX100ED1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.

Popped off old knobs, popped in new. Sorry, nothin' to it or I would'a yelled HELP!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Pulled dryer out from wall and used screwdriver to remove back plate and screw holding timer controller. Once loose I then held new part next to old part and switched wires one at a time, afterwards I replaced back and pushed dryer back into position.

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

I simply took the back panel behind the timer unplugged the old part and when the new part came in I hooked it back up in less than 5 minutes. I did mark each wire to match order I took them out.

I just removed old parts And put the new part on it was very easy to do.

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

remove the broken one and replace it with the new one