GLDS560ED1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

TOOK OFF TOP AND FRONT PANEL REACHED IN UNDER TUBE AND REMOVED FROM BELT TENSIONER HARDEST PART IS PUTTING BACK ON TENSIONER TAKES TWO HANDS LAYING ON YOUR BELLY

The first thing I did was move the dryer out so I could "unplug it" !
Then I took the 4 philps head screws out that hold down the top of the dryer, then I lifted up the top and moved it off to the side making sure the wires didn't get pulled out.
Then I removed the 2 5/16 cap screws that holds the front panel on and lifted that off "Make sure you mark the down were the 2 wires for the door swich go" Like white on pin 1 and yellow on pin 2!!!
The next thing is to slide the drum foward so you can remove the element package then remove the 3 philps screws in the back of the drum make sure you have someone hold the element package there is a sheild between the drum and the element package that may fall that is a watch out you will need to move the element package up so you can work on it there will be wires hooked to this ring so becare full you don't break them off.
remove the element package you will see the bearing kit attached to that.
There are 4 5/16 cap screws that hold the bearing kit to that remove them and then remove the old bearing kit you may find and E Ring holding the old bearing kit in place (this would be found in the older models).
Before you install the new bearing kit take the new self tapping screws and tap the holes in the new bearing kit mounting plates this will make things go faster!!!
Now mount the bearing plate with the 4 holes to the element package there is a tab that needs to be mount in there too so look at the old one when you are taking it off.
Pick up the sheild that fell pick it up have a second person help you hold everything in place while you line up the holes for the front plate to the back of the drum and start your screws.
Now tighten them down check to make sure your belt didn't slide off the tensioner that is next to the motor before you slide the drum back in place if it did take the time to figure out how to get it back on the right way our you will be pulling things apart again.
What I did was spin the Drum by hand to make sure everything was ok. you will know if the belt is off it will not move when you spin the drum by hand.
Now that you made sure the belt is on you can put the front back on there are 2 studs on the bottom that you need to set the frount panel on before you can put the screws back in in it.
Now that you have the fron back on it hook your 2 wires back up to the door switch like you took them off!
Now move your top back over and you will see 2 clips on the back of it that slide into a grove in the back now that you have that in place start putting the screws back in put the middle 2 in first and tighten them down them put the last 2 in.
Now plug it back in if your vent pipe fell off hook it back up as you slide your dryer back in place now try it to make sure everything is working right and you will hear the differance.
Good Luck with your repairs....
Just a quick note this dryer is over 40 years old and still going.
I have replace 6 elements and 1 drive belt since it was bought new now the bearing kit.
Clean it once a year and the vent pipe every 6 months it will last!!!

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.

Pulled the drum an found spade clip burned on wire. Hi limit Thermostat crumbled/ broke while pulling spade clip so I trimmed back the wire, cleaned the spade clip and soldered the wire back on. Isolated the other thermostats in the system and tested for resistance. Reassembled dryer.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

as per your instructions. The copy of the directions was very hard to read

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Had a repair shop quote 230 for repair . Spent 66 on parts and did the repair in 45 minutes using the instructions from folks on this site . Very happy with results thanks

- Removed two screws at top left and right of door.
- Removed top dryer panel
- Removed two screws holding front panel in place
- Noticed drum slide was missing because front drum bearing was worn away and slide had fallen off.
- Went ahead and removed drum to replace rear drum bearing (probably not needed; should have disassembled it first to discover this). Would have been better to pull drum first (loosen idler pulley and release belt, pull drum straight out) instead of attempting to unscrew bearing. Be sure to note how the idler pulley is set.
- vacuumed tons of lint up
- Replaced bearing (needed a second person for this; drum too big to reach around. be sure to pre-thread the bearing)
- Ordered front drum bearing, waiting to repair it now, should be good after this.

Used online instructions. Worked well.