GLDP280GD1WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

Replaced High limit thermostat per video on the website. However, the flange of new thermostat is flat, while chassis it mounts on is round to conform to drum of dryer. So new thermostat was not flush with chassis. Dryer did not shut off early (that problem solved), but instead continued to dry clothes beyond time necessary. Note that old thermostat had one side of flange slightly bent and probably more flush with chassis, and better able to sense when hot temperatures were reached. I dismantled dryer again, slightly bent new flange, re-installed. Seems to work better now .

Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.

remove the broken one and replace it with the new one

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.

this was a part i ordered for future use. i was very happy with the ordering process and speed of delivery from PartSelect.

inserted the lint catcher into the opening to replace the old one

Removed 3 screws that hold on front plate. Snapped out timer and replaced with new one. Attached one wire at a time from old timer to new timer. Reattached front panel and put on new knob. You can also watch on utube.

I thought the dryer timer had gone bad, but was probably just the knob. Exact parts on this site. Pulled dryer out at angle to access back. Removed the three top screws and the front panel easily pulled off. Removed knob to release the part and realized that the knob was probably the problem! Broken plastic.... I still replaced the dryer timer since the dryer is 2014. Took photo to ensure all wires replaced in same spots. Both parts had a letter with the wire color as well. I watched a youtube video and knew I had to rotate the timer counterclockwise to remove it from the panel - two slots hold it onto the panel. I pulled the wires one at a time, some needed pliers to remove. Installed wires on new part, installed timer on panel clockwise, re-attached front panel. When I re-installed the knob, it failed. I ordered the knob from here and used the signal knob temporarily until it arrived. Works great with new knob.

With the help of doityourself guy on the internet

The repair is straightforward. Three phillips head screws along the top on the backside hold the control panel in place. Once the panel is loosened, the timer can be lifted from its mounting. Holding the new timer in one hand, carefully remove wires one at a time from the old timer and placing them on matching points on the new timer. Once all the wires have been moved from the old timer to the new timer, place the new timer in its mounting and reinstall the control knob. Finally reattach the panel with the three phillip head screws. Job complete.

Easy peasey! Just Removed/Replace screw-in type bulb.

Easy as 1 2 3.
1 Ordered Part Received in 3 days Great Service
2 Used Scissors to open the package (not tough to do)
3 Used 1 hand to put the knob on Works Great !!!
Start to Finish 3 min. 16 seconds !!!!

Pulled old knob off. Aligned new knob. Pushed on. Took less than 1 minute, no tools required.
Expensive for a knob.
But it fixed the problem better than switching another knob from the machine.