DPVH890EJ0MV General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Initially purchased just the plastic slides, but when I opened the dryer I found the top drum bearing was smashed and the plastic was basically gone in a whole section, so I then ended up ordering the bearing as well. If you hear the loud squeaking, just buy the top drum bearing and the 4 slides (two white and two dark green). It is an easy repair and the squeaking sound is gone.

pulled off the top, pulled off the front then replaced the plastic that was supporting the front side of the drum. fairly easy to replace although the little plastic 'slides' (you need 4 of them)

Took the top of the dryer off by removing two philips screws in front. Removed two screws holding the front of the dryer on. Pulled the front out enough to reveal the worn drum slides. Replaced them. Reassembled.

Took the front & top off the dryer. Saw that the slides were missing or broken. Got the parts and put it back together. Works great.

I was teaching my associate how to do this repair so I showed him how to take off the top of the dryer. Then I showed him how to replace the drum slides. I had him clean out the dryer since we had it apart, and I also showed him how to remove the drum and then reinstall it. This was a very easy repair, and he learned a lot that he otherwise would not have known. Thanks for getting the parts to me so quickly. Rob from Clarks Summit.

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Unscrew the top panel parts three screws. Then another three or six screws to get to the dryer front which needs only to lift straight up about two inches. Pull back slightly and replace the teflon slides. To replace the slides they lay on a tiny plastic pin and slightly bend into the slot to hold them in place. Reseat the dryer drum. Reverse the process to make it like new. From the time you start hearing the dryer squeak, BE CERTAIN to replace these within a week or two (depending on usage.)Otherwise, you may wear out the housing where the teflon would rest. If that happens, you will be out more money to replace the housing and a lot more time to install. Been there and done that. Trust me.

Removed top screws. Removed front panel screws. Removed front panel. Replaced worn slides. Removed drum. Replaced drum bearing and retainer. Cleaned lint from dryer, motor and blower assembly. Replaced light bulb. Door latch was purchased as spare. Inspected heating element. Re -assembled. Dryer now running like new again. I expect to have restring a new element in the near future. I like how the GE dryer comes apart. It is best to replace the slides before they wear all the way through.

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....