DBLR333EG6CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I removed the top of the dryer (unscrewed from the inside to release the top). Removed interior screws to pull open the front of the dryer. Once inside, it was really visible that the old parts (front air duct top and bottom) were in bad shape. They were cracked and broken. I removed the old pieces (they pretty much cracked and crumbled right off). I snapped in the new pieces careful to avoid damaging the electrical connections and wires. Once snapped into place (top and bottom), I careful put the front back into place making sure that the dryer drum rested on the new pieces. All screws back in place and all done! Dryer is now working as new!!!

Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done

Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !

Replaced cycle thermostat.

my problem was easy, i orderd a new lint filter, for a
dryer that is at least 10y/o. it came to me by FEDEX,
in 3 days. i threw out the old one and put in the new
one. easy peasy. i will say that this website had what i
wanted and got it to me very quickly. good job by
PARTSELECT......

I reviewed the video instructions on the website; these were invaluable to understand the task. Since the dryer drum had to be removed to replace the thermostat, it was prudent to replace the drive belt at disassembly. Great job on the videos to see the extra effort required to install the new belt around the tensioner pulley while supporting the drum. I will use this site again when a need arises, because they are quick to ship the ordered part(s) and help the DIY handyman make repairs via the videos.

disconnect power plug unscrew 3 screws in back. lean forward remove button disconnect 2 wires in back of switch. put switch connect 2 wires and button. connect 3 screws in the back. ready to start working

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

First, I unplugged the dryer, carefully so as not to electrocute myself. Then, I removed the panel on the top, back of the dryer, using a Phillips screwdriver. Then I removed the old timer and unplugged all the connectors, one at a time, so as to make sure I plugged them back in to the correct positions on the new timer. I had to use pliers because they were very hard to remove. Then, I plugged them into the same positions on the new timer, which was easy. Then I replaced the timer into position. Then, because I could not use the old knob since it still had part of the old cheap soft plastic post stuck inside it, I took a knob for the power rinse control off of my washer, since I never use that anyway, and I put it onto the new cheap soft plastic post on the new timer, and it works like a charm. I plan to be very, very gentle with that knob, knowing, as I do, that the post that it turns is not much harder than room temperature butter and that, if I break it, it will cost me over $70 dollars to get another one, and it also will not even contain a new knob, even though the one I borrowed from my washer will be unusable because it will have half of the old post stuck in it. Finally, I replaced the panel on the top, back of the dryer and plugged in the dryer.

Removed case parts to expose internal wiring. Vacuumed up various types of mouse debris and plugged hole they were using. Ordered terminal block to replace the one that melted while sparks were flying. Replaced power cord with one I had in my basement from some other appliance that died a while ago. "Hey honey, ya know those old parts I saved..." :) Now it is heating to capacity and no spark-show! Oh yeah, the part I ordered from Partselect.com was delivered to my door the next day!!!!! Wow!

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!

Read the other posts - they are very good. On my particular dryer it took two Slide WH and two Slide Dryer Drum Side PS266785.

Most time spent was vaccuming out and removing a softball size ball of lint clogging the dryer - now it will actually dry clothes!

Part select delivery is really fantastic (even though it took me three orders to get it right!).

Took the few screws out replaced the part then put it back together.

I followed the instruction of the first posting for this category and it worked perfectly...thanks for the nice detail...

- Upon receipt from PartSelect, placed new slides in Drum Bearing (this does not come together or as a kit - must order 4 slides AND Bearing separately for this dryer model)
- Loosened Top panel screws (2) from inside door area
- Slid top of dryer off - PAY attention to HOW the top comes out (tabs at the back and slots on the sides) or replacing the top could prove frustrating)
- Loosened Front panel screws (2) and GENTLY leaned the panel forward to access Drum Bearing - no need to REMOVE the front panel but be aware of the switch wires when leaning and the weight of the door if you did not remove that
- Removed old Drum Bearing
- Vacuumend interior of dryer cabinet (especially area leading down to vent)
- Snapped new Drum Bearing into place
- Re-secured Front panel paying attention to drum position to make sure everything still rotated properly and freely
- Reset Top panel - align back tabs first, gently pull forward just a bit until Top slips down over side tabs, then slide back into place and re-secure

Worked like a charm - took about 20 minutes...