DRSR483EG4CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!

A quick look inside verified that the drum slides were worn through but I also found that the plastic drum bearing that holds the slides was cracked in a couple different places. Ordered a new drum bearing, new slides, and decided to replace the felt seal as well since it looked pretty ratty. Parts arrived quickly after ordering and installation literally took 15-20 minutes. Purrs like a baby now. Steps: Unplug dryer. remove two screws which hold top of dryer to front. Remove two screws which hold front (door) to rest of unit. No need to disconnect wiring to front door, just make sure not to pull the wires out! Install new parts. Put it back together in reverse order.

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

Upon receiving the parts, we went to the video repair instructions. We found these videos to be very well done and very helpful. It was great being able to pause the video at specific points until we were able to complete that step of the repair. All of the replacement parts fit correctly and there were no issues.

I called a repair guy from a well thought of city appliance store. Guy gives me a price of $250 to repair. I let him know I only paid about $350 for the dryer. Guy tells me he can sell me a new dryer. Did my search and found the part with Part Select for around $50. Delivery was quick and installation easy. At around $200 for a 10 min installation, I may start my own service company.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

I followed some simple instructions from GE. It was really easy and I even found some spare change inside the cabinet which my wife took off my hands. :/

Pulled Timer knob off. Realized at that time it was just the knob slipping on the shaft of the dryer timer. Removed six screws on back panel of control knobs. Removed and replaced one wire at a time from old to new dryer timer. Put new dryer time in place and reinstalled back panel. I replaced knob with one of the four that I never use. I replaced timer just because I had it.

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!