DBLR333GG6CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

A quick look inside verified that the drum slides were worn through but I also found that the plastic drum bearing that holds the slides was cracked in a couple different places. Ordered a new drum bearing, new slides, and decided to replace the felt seal as well since it looked pretty ratty. Parts arrived quickly after ordering and installation literally took 15-20 minutes. Purrs like a baby now. Steps: Unplug dryer. remove two screws which hold top of dryer to front. Remove two screws which hold front (door) to rest of unit. No need to disconnect wiring to front door, just make sure not to pull the wires out! Install new parts. Put it back together in reverse order.

To quiet the noise temporarly I would spray silicone into the dryer drum groove on the front inside panel.Got tired of this and removed the top of the dryer by removing two screws under the front bottom of the dryer top. Remove two screws, one on each side of front panel(screws are on the inside). Lift the front panel straight up and swing to the side. Keep the wires connected to the panel. There is plenty of room to move panel about. Note: I replaced the drum bearing thinking it was a one piece unit with the teflon rub strips. All I had to do is order the teflon rub strips and I would have saved 24 dollars. Reverse the disassembly process to assemble.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

Upon receiving the parts, we went to the video repair instructions. We found these videos to be very well done and very helpful. It was great being able to pause the video at specific points until we were able to complete that step of the repair. All of the replacement parts fit correctly and there were no issues.

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

I followed some simple instructions from GE. It was really easy and I even found some spare change inside the cabinet which my wife took off my hands. :/

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

Super easy and clear instructions

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

I watched how to do the repair on YouTube prior to ordering the parts. The video seemed simple enough so I ordered the parts and followed along with the YouTube video. My new push to start switch did not work properly, still had to rest a heavy object against it to get the dryer going and my timer knob worked for a full cycle and a half before it stopped working. It became loose and will not set on any specific time setting. Perhaps I diagnosed my problem incorrectly, not sure just know I am out of $96.06 and am grateful that I have a clothes line strung up outside to dry my clothes for now!

Took apart by removing the top and front panel. Found drum rubbing due to worn glides and felt.

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

I first removed the the timer knob and the other ones from the front of the control panel. Then I removed the three screws that held the rear access to the control panel. Disconnected all wires to the timer keeping written info to which wires went to which terminal. The replacement timer was exactly like the original in the placement and designation of the terminals. I then twisted the bad timer out of the plastic holders, placed the new one and twisted it in place, and replaced the wires. I then replaced the screws in the rear of the panel and replaced the knobs. It did not take much longer than writing this. Very easy and I am completely satisfied.

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.