DWSR405EB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

My dryer would run but not heat and the timer would not advance. PartSelect helped me determine that the heating element needed to be replaced. I have very little experience with appliance repair. I found this to be challenging but well worth it.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

Checked all thermostats, they were good. Circuit was getting 220 vac. Eventually found fuse in the back near the heating element, same was bad. By-passed same, and when we did, the timer Popped & arched !. Not sure why. Motor protectrion fuse found to be good. Heating elements good. Fuse was the only bad part found, never figured out what caused it to blow. Appliance was taken away after purchase of new one. Problem not found or resolved by self diagnostics. Originally the exhaust duct was somewhat clogged with lint, but not severely.

Took the dryer apart in an adjacent unused bedroom. Saw that the element was bad. Ordered new part from Part Select and installed when it arrived. The whole situation went as smooth as could be.

Originally ordered heating element kit, but decided to replace drum slides and "o"-ring while the dryer was dis-assembled.Replacing the dryer elements was relatively easy-just follow instructions. Replacing the slides and o-ring was very easy, just clip in place. The dryer vent was almost totally clogged and probably the cause of most problems. This took longer than all mechanical repairs as I have a long dryer vent. I suggest cleaning the dryer vent regularly to avoid problem. I used a 4" circular brush and cordless drill to clean the duct. If you have not cleaned your vent in 2-3 years, you will be amazed at the amount of lint build-up. I was very pleased with the price of parts and customer service at Parts-Select, estimate I saved approximately $250-300.

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

Just push the new knob over the metal pin

pushed replacement knob on shaft of dryer. machine works better than new. took less than 24 hours from time of order to time of delivery to my house.

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.

Snapped right on! No problem.

Replaced bulb.

All I did was stick the knob on. How easy was that! Knob works every time. Very pleased with the part.

To get to where the drum slides go you have to first remove the dryer top. Then you have to remove the two screws that hold the dryer front/door. Found inside the dryer about an inch down on both sides. Be careful because it will fall off. Lower carefully as there is an electric hook-up on the bottom of the door. On the door top are the brackets that the slides slip into. My dryer has 4 slides. Sold individually for some reason. You are done except for re-assembly. Slip dryer drum back on door, press the front until you hear it click back together. Put screws back in and top back on. You are done and no more screeching!

follow the video, and in no time fix and ran smooth, like brand new, love this website, fast and reliable