DBSR453EA0AA General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

I removed the top of the dryer and saw that the top two drum slides where gone and the drum bearing itself was damaged I Temporally placed the parts on the drum bearing until I got the new one, that stopped the squeaking noise. All I needed to do was place the part with the hole on the little hook and then sled the other part in its slot.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.

wife used instruction on your site she had it repaired when i got out of the shower

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

Replacement of the timer was very simple. The only problem I have is that the replacement part did not fix the problem. No thought required.

1) Disconnect power supply. 2) Open dryer door to find and remove two screws through dryer top. 3) Proceed to lift front dryer top panel and tap rear of dryer top with hand to left to disengage tabs and remove dryer top completely. 4) Remove two screws through front panel. 5) Gently lift dryer front panel from base tabs to partial remove panel (careful of wires which remain connected) - pivot front panel to left with wires connected. 6) lift dryer barrel with left hand / reach under barrel with right hand to release belt from tensioner pulley (very easy one-hand maneuver). pull dryer barrel belt off tensioner pulley towards you, remove belt from motor pulley below. 7) lift/pull and remove dryer barrel and belt (flex side panels). 8) take picture of wire connection locations on heating element and remove wires from tabs two locations / 3 wires. 9) remove sensors 3 locations. 10) remove heating element and housing. 11) install new heating element / housing and reverse process. .....tip; belt tensioner pulley was biggest challenge at first because it was hard to see how it all worked and reach. once i realized i could force / lift the barrel up to gain better access it was much easier than trying to fit my arm through the one large available hole at bottom right (when looking at the unit). the tensioner pulley is opposite side (left when facing) and you would have to reach over the exhaust, etc.

Took the dryer apart in an adjacent unused bedroom. Saw that the element was bad. Ordered new part from Part Select and installed when it arrived. The whole situation went as smooth as could be.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

UPLUG POWER!!!!!!!! Pull timer knob off of front of panel. There MAY be a sleeve on the metal shaft left behind. If there is, you'll need to remove that sleeve for the replacement timer. The sleeve MAY stay in the timer knob. Then remove top screws on back panel (4 screws?). Lift panel,and lay forward onto top of dryer, exposing BACK of timer. DO NOT remove wires yet. There is a long metal tab that locks the timer in place. The timer ROTATES counter clockwise to releae it. The long metal tab PREVENTS it from rotating. With a screwdriver, lift the long metal tab, rotate the timer counter clockwise and lift OUT of the panel. It should be hanging by the wires. DO NOT REMOVE WIRES YET. Install the NEW timer by inserting into the panel and rotating clockwise. The long metal tab should click into place. One by one... and VERY CAREFULLY, using needle nose pliers (don't pull directly on the wire as you may pull the wire out of the metal terminal)... remove the metal terminals from the timer tabs. Replace the SINGLE wire onto the NEW timer. When you're done, test the drier BEFORE replacing the panel (being careful NOT to touch the wires inside the panel). return power. Set time to timed-dry till it's ALMOST to the OFF position. It should run for about 5 minutes, buzzer should sound, and then shut off. REMOVE POWER!!!!! replace panel and insert the 4 mounting screws. RETURN POWER.... reconnect vent hose if it came off and put the drier back in place.