DBB3300GA2AA General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I followed the directions that were listed on this site by other Do It Yourself individuals...by the way I'm a lady and more mechanically inclined than my husband, but he was a great help in lifting the drum up and out. (I unplugged the dryer before starting repairs)
1. I removed the two screws located at the top of the dryer inside the door.
2. Top of dryer cabinet lifted up after screws were removed.
3. Located and removed front panel retension screws and removed front panel and set aside
4. slipped belt off motor by reducing tension on idler pully
5. Removed screws inside drum that secured drum to bearing assembly
6. Husband and I lifted drum up and out of cabinet (this went very smoothly and took less than 15 minutes time.
7. Followed supplied bearing drum instructions and removed old bearing and installed new assembly.
8. Thoroughly cleaned out internal cabinet, blower, and motor areas
9. Reset the idler pully into proper position.
10. Tipped dryer on 'back' to reseat the drum With A NEW DRYER BELT (taped temporarily around the drum) into the bearing shaft (I may not be using the proper terms)
11. tipped dryer upright and while Hubby balanced the drum, the front panel was resecured to the rest of the cabinet.
12. Removed temporarily applied tape that held the drum belt in the general position, then using the rear access panel, I slipped the belt over the motor into the proper posisiton.
13. Top cabinet was reapplied and screwed into
place.
14 Plugged in and tested the dryer...NO SQUEAKS and it works beautifully and quietly!!

The job is not terribly difficult, but I am only 5 feet tall and the drum is bulky to work with and balance. Reaching into the cabinet to slip the belt onto the motor stretched my arm to the limit.
I found the cabinet reassembly and realignment of the screw holes quite annoying. But the total job proved satisfying upon completion.

Pulled out the remnants of the old latch out with the pliers and then popped the new one in...less than 2 minutes. Oh, and the part was delivered in less than 2 days. Great job, Partselect !

It makes it real easy if you have two people!! Put the dryer on it back--You'll need to protect the floor and the warm air exhaust of the dryer.
Remove the two screws that secure the top--they are located on the inside upper portion of where the door seats on the front panel. Remove the top
Remove the front by removing two screws near the top--one on each side
Remove the belt from the idler pulley--note how it comes off
Lift drum out of dryer
Use the torx bit to remove the bearing
If you got the kit it comes w/ the bearing housing--you'll need to disconnect a couple of the wiring harnesses holding the heater--replace the bearing housing
This is the perfect time to remove all dust bunnies
Re-install everything in reverse order

Disconnect Power from the Dryer
Remove 2 screws that held the top on the dryer.
Removed the 2 screw that held the front on the dryer.
Unhooked the belt from the tensioner and motor pulley.
Pulled the drum out. Removed the belt.
Removed the three screws that held the bearing assembly
on the back of the drum.
Removed the keeper o-ring slide the bad bearing off of shaft. Slide the new bearing on the shaft put the new o-ring on the shaft. Reassembled the bearing on back of the drum. Put belt back around the drum and put drum back in place. Put The belt around the motor pulley and tensioner
(this is probably the hardest part).
Put the front and top back together.
Turned the power back on. Job done

Removed the front panel,tiped up the top panel ,removed the drum, drive belt,motor and exaust tube assembly. cleaned and vaccumed all lint from every were. Removed motor from fan blade and houseing. Reinstalled moter and pulley that came with the moter and fan blade. reinstalled all of the rest of the parts and plugedin the wires. once all back together pluged into outlet and turned on and prasto works great.

When I went home at Christmas, I saw that my Mom had been using a small bench to keep her dryer door shut. I wrote the make / model of the dryer down and found your website. I ordered the part, and my sister snapped it into place. My mom was so happy to have her dryer door stay shut again!

The diagrams on the Parts Select web site is what made it easy for me. I could see from the diagram how the dryer was assembled. I removed the two screws holding the top on then separated the front apart from the drum. I did have to remove the panel in the back where the power connects to access the drive pulley and belt tensioner. I slid the old belt off and simply reversed the procedure for the new one. Put it back together and it runs beautifully.

I also installed a new door gasket with no tools. Now it does not leak lint from the fronf door.

I took off the top panel and ran the dryer. I watched as the drum turned more and more slowly until it stopped. I turned it off, and unplugged it.
I took off the front panel, simply swinging it to the left like a gate so I didn't have to disconnect any wires, then pulled out the drum. I should have taken the belt off the pulley idler first!
Got the drum out and could see the broken idler wheel and the groove on the drum's back post for the O-ring. There is a silicon sheath that goes on this back post - don't lose it if it is still good or you'll have to buy another.
Getting the idler wheel off the stem was as simple as using the pliers to turn the nut until it came off. I put the new one on, then put the nut back on. I adjusted the position of the idler pulley so that the belt would not be out of line with the pulley on the motor - I just eye-balled it.
I slipped the belt around the drum, put the silicon sheath back on the drum post, then put the o-ring in the groove on the post.
Put the drum back in the dryer, lining up the post to go back in the hole was a challenge.
Then, getting the belt back on the pulley needed a little muscle to apply the tension needed to allow the belt to get into place. I had one hand in each opening on each side of the drum and did it by feel.
I put the front panel back on and did a test run. The drum was turning with force now, not slowing down nor easy to stop by applying resistance with my hand. It was also much quieter.
Put on the top panel and done!

1st - removed the two screws inside the front door panel. They are somewhat hidden up underneath so you may have to look for them. 2nd - I removed the top of the dryer cabinet by lifting it out of the clips holding it in place. 3rd - removed the two screws (one on each side) in the o=uppper corner of where the side panels connect the front panel. These are about 3/4" phillips head screws. Then the front panel could be moved to one side of the dry. 4th - remove the drum by lifting it up and out the open top area. 5th - add the new belt to the dryer tub (rib side towards the drum) and replace dryer tub to its original position. 6th - reaching in underneath the tub you need to pull the ideler pulley toward the center of the cabinet while laying the belt on the "outer side" of the ideler pulley and at the same time fitting the belt over the small pulley located on the motor. Once that is done, you reassemble in reverse order and should be good to go.

I wanted to fix the cheapest possible problem first which was the thermostat.

Got the dryer apart and it was the wrong thermostat for the dryer, which was good news! I looked in inside floor of the dryer cabinet and saw alot of tiny "springs". Couldn't figure how they got there.

Turned out they were coils from the heating element. Must have burnt out and fell free from the element. So I ordered that and replaced it.

I want to say that I'm in NJ and I ordered that thermostat and got it in ONE DAY! Thought that was too good to be true but when I ordered the heating element THAT CAME IN ONE DAY!

I don't know what kind of people work in the shipping department but they are awesome! You really made the difference on this job.

So did the info on your website. I've never even seen a dryer apart before. It was a piece of cake thanks to you guys. You just saved me about $500.

Used an allen wrench to remove the heat deflector and used allen wrench to replace it with the new one. HINT!! Do not lean on the inside of the dryer!!!!!!

I was cleaning my laundry room when I noticed the gasket needed cleaning. While wiping it off it appeared as though I could remove it and that was my biggest mistake. Once removed it could not be replaced, due to the little parts that held it to the door began tearing off as I tried to put it back on. I ordered a new gasket and had it put on. It did not require any tools, just concentration. I've learned "if it's not broken, don't fix it"! I spoke with several other people and I am the only one who has removed a gasket. Thank you very much PartSelect for your help.

Read the other posts - they are very good. On my particular dryer it took two Slide WH and two Slide Dryer Drum Side PS266785.

Most time spent was vaccuming out and removing a softball size ball of lint clogging the dryer - now it will actually dry clothes!

Part select delivery is really fantastic (even though it took me three orders to get it right!).

First remove top cabinet panel by removing two small screws under door recess; then swing up lid and remove from hinged area at the rear. Once top panel is removed, remove the front panel and door assembly by removing two attach screws securing front panel to dryer cabinet. Swing the front panel down and remove from two base hinge points. Slightly lift the front of the dryer drum and wedge some rolled up newspaper between drum and frame to provide access to get your hands through to the idler pulley and motor area. Remove the belt form the motor & idler pulley; then slide the drum out of the cabinet to gain access to the idler pulley. Remove nut securing idler pulley from bracket and remove and replace with new part. Reverse the process to complete the installation.

Many have already described the repair, and it was exactly as they have described. Remove the two screws inside the top of the opening which hold down the top of the dryer. Pull off the top, and look inside to remove the two small screws that attach the front of the dryer. As the front separates, the front comes out of the drum and the drum bearing will come into view. Pop out the drum bearing ~ there are no screws ~ it simply snaps in place. (I suggest removing the lightbulb first, or you'll be buying one of those also. )

Replace the new drum bearing and snap it into place. Then replace the four drum slides. Replacing the drum slides is a quick, one minute task. Mine were completely worn away ~ no wonder it was squealing so badly. Then reverse the process to put it all back together. Total job was maybe 15 minutes long. Easy as could be and saved a ton of money, I'm sure. Sounds like new now!

Piece of advice that I could not find anywhere prior to ordering ~ you need FOUR drum slides to replace them all. Not knowing, I originally only bought two, so I had to order two more and add them later. Also, I probably could have gotten away without replacing the drum bearing ~ the slides were all that was really worn.

Thanks for the quick turnaround on the orders and the advice on line. Easy, easy, easy!