DWSR405GB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

I simply removed the switch and matched the pole numbers to the new switch eventhough the new switch had two extra poles. The switch replacement was straightforward and worked very well.

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

Followed the Part Select video instructions which made the repair really easy!! Thanks for a job well done! ALSO.. the drum wobble was not caused by worn slides and felt. There are three screws holding the drum axle flange. Two of them fell out leaving the drum to flop about as it rotated. So we scavenged some screws from elsewhere on the dryer and problem solved. Once again.. thanks to Part Select for great instructional videos and great customer service ordering parts.

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.

This is the 2nd time we had to replace the slides. Not a big deal. Removed the top & front of the dyer and replaced the new slides. It's also a good time to vacuum out the inside while you have it apart. Be advised.... Get your tools ready. You'll be receiving your parts quickly. Couldn't believe how fast they arrived!

I went to replace all four of the drum slides but in the process of doing this, found out that the whole of the top support had been rubbed away! I therefore ordered a replacement top support and replaced it per the instructions in the PartSelect webpage and from the youtube demonstration and completed the repair. I had a little trouble with getting the top support installed, but by jiggling it around and persistence I was able to complete the repair. The help I received on the webpage and video were invaluable! Thank you to PartSelect and to the other users for all your help!!

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

Originally ordered heating element kit, but decided to replace drum slides and "o"-ring while the dryer was dis-assembled.Replacing the dryer elements was relatively easy-just follow instructions. Replacing the slides and o-ring was very easy, just clip in place. The dryer vent was almost totally clogged and probably the cause of most problems. This took longer than all mechanical repairs as I have a long dryer vent. I suggest cleaning the dryer vent regularly to avoid problem. I used a 4" circular brush and cordless drill to clean the duct. If you have not cleaned your vent in 2-3 years, you will be amazed at the amount of lint build-up. I was very pleased with the price of parts and customer service at Parts-Select, estimate I saved approximately $250-300.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

To get inside the dryer in this model is extreemly difficult. I had to remove the side panel. In order to do this I needed to take off the screws on the back cover side where I needed to replace the cord. Then I needed to remove the screws to take off the top cover, front door, rear panel, trim switch, and end cap. I also had to remove the front door. After that I could tak off the side panel and change the cord.

Checked all thermostats, they were good. Circuit was getting 220 vac. Eventually found fuse in the back near the heating element, same was bad. By-passed same, and when we did, the timer Popped & arched !. Not sure why. Motor protectrion fuse found to be good. Heating elements good. Fuse was the only bad part found, never figured out what caused it to blow. Appliance was taken away after purchase of new one. Problem not found or resolved by self diagnostics. Originally the exhaust duct was somewhat clogged with lint, but not severely.

Used pliers to remove old clip. Installed new clip and knob. Very easy.

I removed the top of the dryer and saw that the top two drum slides where gone and the drum bearing itself was damaged I Temporally placed the parts on the drum bearing until I got the new one, that stopped the squeaking noise. All I needed to do was place the part with the hole on the little hook and then sled the other part in its slot.