DCCB330ED2KC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

Took apart the dryer housing fairly quickly, pulled out the drum, and installed the kit. Was fairly simple. Then reassembled. The hardest part was trying to get the belt on properly and reconnect to the motor. Believe it or not, I wasted most of my time on the belt. Should've watched the video better and listened to my wife and her suggestions.

Watched the video on a different style of dryer so taking apart a bit of a challenge. The old Front Drum Bearing was completely gone on left side and a challenge to pry it off the front dryer panel. replaced felt seal and front drum bearing. noticed that there was 4 places for new bearing slides. the ones i ordered were white and green but did not know why or which one went where as no explanation with packaging. also only ordered one of each and so now had to stop and try and find two more. ! hour later i had brought back a tupperware lid that was thick enough and stated could go to 194 degrees F. i cut out one replacement for green bearing and reused the old white one since it was in good shape from right side of drum bearing. i went back to this website and noticed in the comments section for drum bearing that someone stated the green bearing slides go in at positions 11 and 1 and the white at 10 and 2. they are different materials and having more weight of drum on green now made sense. put machine back together and told neice to keep eyes and ears on dryer thru cycle. she did not even know it was running just in next room.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Unplugged dryer, slid away from wall, and rotated 90 degrees. I removed top panel, and front panel, pulling off 2 electrical wires, and disconnecting 1 Molex connector, for the door switch. I turned the front panel around, and leaned up against the dryer drum. I removed the light bulb, then snapped off the remains of the upper bearing, then unsnapped the duct panel assembly. I carefully positioned the duct assembly against the front panel, carefully making sure not to pinch any wires, and pressed into place. I then pushed the bottom of the top bearing into the duct assembly, and pushed the top into place, replacing the bearing wear strips, 2 black, 2 white once bearing is snapped into place. I rewired the door switch, put the bulb back in, screwed the front panel, then top panel back on, rotated back into position, plugged it in, and started dryer. Problem solved!

removed rhe control panel, 4 torx screws. removed top of unit 2 philips screws , lifted out of the way ro get to front panel . 2 more torx screws ro get front panel off then juat a matter of changing out worn parts & reassembling dryer unit took maybe an hour thing runs great now

We watched the YouTube video and had it installed in no time. Saved money doing it ourselves.

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

Removed 2 screws to remove top. Removed 2 other screws to remove front. Removed old parts. Installed new parts. Reassemble all afetr cleaning duct work out.

- Removed two screws at top left and right of door.
- Removed top dryer panel
- Removed two screws holding front panel in place
- Noticed drum slide was missing because front drum bearing was worn away and slide had fallen off.
- Went ahead and removed drum to replace rear drum bearing (probably not needed; should have disassembled it first to discover this). Would have been better to pull drum first (loosen idler pulley and release belt, pull drum straight out) instead of attempting to unscrew bearing. Be sure to note how the idler pulley is set.
- vacuumed tons of lint up
- Replaced bearing (needed a second person for this; drum too big to reach around. be sure to pre-thread the bearing)
- Ordered front drum bearing, waiting to repair it now, should be good after this.

I followed the directions from the other d-i-y'ers at partselect.com.... removing 2 screws inside the door opening that allow you to remove the cabinet top. Next, removed the 2 screw on the inside cabinet frame that allow the front of the cabinet and door to lean out. I disconnected the wires, labelling them with tape. You just lift up the front and set it to the side. I then removed the back access panel, reached inside and pulled down on the tension bar to allow the drum-belt to come off the pulley. (It helps to remember or draw the path of the belt...I got a little confused when it was time to put it back on). Then me and my wife pulled the drum out towards the front - you have to spread the cabinet open a little - but you can do this without even having to remove the control panel (but if you remove the panel, it is a little easier). The rest is mostly just unscrewing screws.

The problem was definitely the rear drum bearing, which was rusted and the carbon/plastic sleeve was crumbled. I bought it and the front "drum bearing", but I didn't really need the front piece, I really just needed the plastic "slides", which I thought were attached to it, or would at least come with it, but didn't. I'll get those later.

The repair was definitely worth it. If you have a 10 yr old dryer, just clearing the lint and crud from the the blower ducts will make it more efficient - cutting our dying times by 30-50%. The duct beneath the lint filter was probably 60% blocked. No more squeaking. I only wish the little plastic slides weren't $7 a pop, and would come in a package of 2 or 4.

Removed top. Removed 2 screws holding front panel. Swung panel out to access felt and bearing. Pulled out felt and replaced. Pulled of drum bearing and installed new one.

Good time to vacume out all the lint.

NOTE: Order 4 SLIDE WH with the drum bearing. When you order the bearing it automatically orders you 2 Slides, but all 4 should be replaced.

Had a repair shop quote 230 for repair . Spent 66 on parts and did the repair in 45 minutes using the instructions from folks on this site . Very happy with results thanks