DPSF505GW1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

To get inside the dryer in this model is extreemly difficult. I had to remove the side panel. In order to do this I needed to take off the screws on the back cover side where I needed to replace the cord. Then I needed to remove the screws to take off the top cover, front door, rear panel, trim switch, and end cap. I also had to remove the front door. After that I could tak off the side panel and change the cord.

1st I suspected it's just the timer knob so I ordered the knob. Soon as I was installing the knob it was too loose, when I inspected the timer stem it was also broke. So I ordered a timer. Soon as the timer arrived, I installed the timer and tested the dryer then it came on.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

We ordered a timer knob from partselect.com and within 24 hours received our new, better, stronger time knob in the mail. We were very impressed with the customer service of this company and will definitely recommend to friends.

opened the package when the part came,(the selection knob) stuck it in the timer hole and turned the dryer on...took less than 15 seconds.

Finding the part number on the site was very easy. Replacement came in a few days. Replacement was very easy. The only thing that might have been tricky was knowing to remove the old metal insert. That issue was covered in the helpful video making this a "no brainer".

I checked the part number on the knob. Found the 1-800 number on a label in the door of the dryer. Called the number and easily ordered the part. The customer service associate that answered my call said it would be here in 3-5 budiness days. To my surprise, it was on my doorstep the next day. I simply placed it where it needed to go and wah-la!! I had a working knob again. My phone call to parts service went very smoothly and delivery was extra speedy!! Very satisfied.

I took the visegrip pliers off the d shaft and simply slid the new knob on with ease. I never doubted my abilities!