DPSB513EB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

My dryer would run but not heat and the timer would not advance. PartSelect helped me determine that the heating element needed to be replaced. I have very little experience with appliance repair. I found this to be challenging but well worth it.

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

I opened the unit by removing the two screws over the door, lifting the top (careful not to break the plastic tabs connecting it in the rear to the electronic control panel), then removing the two screws securing the front so I could slide the drum forward and out (hoisting by the belt, bending the sides out slightly). I tested the heating elements for continuity, and tested the two thermostats on the left and right of the heating element for continuity. I found the wiring diagram in the control panel with the specs for the thermistors, which said they should read about 100 kOhm at room temperature. The two on the heating element were OK, but the thermistor on the back of the plastic output box read only about 6 kOhm. After ordering and installing the replacement, it took about 15 minutes to put the drum back in, re-thread the belt, and close the unit back up (thanks to some helpful videos on YouTube). This was the second time this thermistor failed! The first time was under warranty.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

1) Disconnect power supply. 2) Open dryer door to find and remove two screws through dryer top. 3) Proceed to lift front dryer top panel and tap rear of dryer top with hand to left to disengage tabs and remove dryer top completely. 4) Remove two screws through front panel. 5) Gently lift dryer front panel from base tabs to partial remove panel (careful of wires which remain connected) - pivot front panel to left with wires connected. 6) lift dryer barrel with left hand / reach under barrel with right hand to release belt from tensioner pulley (very easy one-hand maneuver). pull dryer barrel belt off tensioner pulley towards you, remove belt from motor pulley below. 7) lift/pull and remove dryer barrel and belt (flex side panels). 8) take picture of wire connection locations on heating element and remove wires from tabs two locations / 3 wires. 9) remove sensors 3 locations. 10) remove heating element and housing. 11) install new heating element / housing and reverse process. .....tip; belt tensioner pulley was biggest challenge at first because it was hard to see how it all worked and reach. once i realized i could force / lift the barrel up to gain better access it was much easier than trying to fit my arm through the one large available hole at bottom right (when looking at the unit). the tensioner pulley is opposite side (left when facing) and you would have to reach over the exhaust, etc.

It was as easy as the repair film said it was . But after spending the money for the upper and lower baring seals I put it all back together and the motor started making a loud noise ? I took the drum and everything out and started the motor without the drum just the motor was running and the danged motor is going out now !I checked the price of a new motor its not to bad but with all of the parts I have put in this thing I could have paid part of what it would have cost for a new dryer ! I put it all back together and hope it last long enough to at least recoup some of what I have spent ,But the new parts work good !

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

Took the dryer apart in an adjacent unused bedroom. Saw that the element was bad. Ordered new part from Part Select and installed when it arrived. The whole situation went as smooth as could be.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

I removed the top of the dryer and saw that the top two drum slides where gone and the drum bearing itself was damaged I Temporally placed the parts on the drum bearing until I got the new one, that stopped the squeaking noise. All I needed to do was place the part with the hole on the little hook and then sled the other part in its slot.

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.