DBXR463EB2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!

After unplugging the dryer, I removed the rear cover of the control area by removing 3 phillips screws on the back of the dryer - There is also a lower small panel that will come out along with the rear control panel cover during this operation. Next I removed 4 T20 Star type screws on the top painted edge of the control panel. The panel then tilted forward allowing good access to the start switch. I removed the switch from the panel WITHOUT taking off the wires as I wanted to verify that I was getting the wires transfered correctly. Both the new and old switch have number designations by the connection terminals. Once I had transfered the wires to the new switch by associating the numbers on the switch. The terminal with two wires has a little adapter that comes out with the two wires. I placed the new switch into the hole on the control panel, gave it a twist to engage the holding clips and when rotated into place, the switch "clicked" as it locked the little arm that sticks out of the side of the switch into place. Reassembly of the panels was easy, just put the panels back into place and torque down the screws and replace the control knob. Even though I had to purchase a set of stardrivers to complete this repair, the whole repair process ran only $30.00 and I ended up owning a set of star-screwdrivers. The last time Mr. Repairguy was here it ran over $200.00! Also, the documentation offered by Parts Select made locating and getting access to the switch fairly easy.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge

First, disconnect the dryer from the outlet. I started by removing the knobs from the front, then removing the panel that covered the knobs by removing the screws on top. This requires a special star-shaped screwdriver, easy and cheap to get at Home Depot. DO NOT try using a phillips screwdriver. It will strip out the heads of the screws. Once you have removed that, disconnect the wires from the switch, noting which wire went to which connection. They're numbered 1 through 4 although you only use three of them. You will see that the switch has a skinny, narrow "tab" sticking out the side (look at the new one for reference). You will need to gently lift the end of that while "unscrewing" the switch from the panel (you might need a pair of pliers if it's rusted, but DO NOT force). Once out, just replace with the new switch, making sure to use the numbers for connections and not just where they're positioned on the back of the switch. Reassemble and you're done. It took me about 40 minutes including my trial-and-error. Using these directions, I think I could have done the whole thing in about 15-20 minutes.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

Faulty Door switch. Dryer would heat up so I knew it wasn't thermostat or element related.

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

Hardest part was rustling up the proper screw driver. 1) Unplug dryer from outlet. 2) Pull plastic knobs off all switches. 3) Remove screws and remove control panel. 4) Remove rotary switch by gently prying up on hold-down arm and twisting entire switch mechanism. 5) Remove wires one at a time and attach to corresponding spade lugs on new switch. 6) Install switch and twist into place. 7) Replace panel. 8) Replace control knobs. Under 20 minutes.

I arrive home to the dreaded news, "The dryer is broken, I simply turned it on and smelled smoke!"
I replied "What unbreakable item did you break today?"
She showed me the dryer, we did a sniff test, removed the front control panel and determined it was probably the start switch. We took a shot, went online and ordered the part required from the best source of information that we could find, partselect.com.
The part arrived within two days and we installed it within minutes of its' arrival and it only took about 10 minutes. Plugged it in and we are back in business. This beats even the Maytag repair man!

Received rotary start switch, unplugged dryer, removed screws from cover, rotated cover down toward front, removed wires from old switch to new switch, lifted tab on side of old switch and rotated counterclockwise to remove old switch, installed old switch in reverse order, replaced cover, plugged in dryer and test operation was good.

Opened the door and removed 2 screws from inside/top of door. Removed top and then removed 2 screws from back of front panel. Lifted drum slightly to remove front panel and attached new slides.

I opened the control panel from the back. I held the new switch next to the old switch and changed one wire at a time so that I would be sure they were connected in the same manner. It was simple. I have American Home Shield and I usually call them for repairs. Sometimes they are slow and after 3 days the contractor that they usually call didn't have a work order from them. I was tired of waiting so I ordered the part myself. I got overnight shipping and repaired it myself for about half what the American Home Shield minimum charge would have been. The day I got the dryer working again, the contractor called to scheduyle a time to come to my house. I told him the repair was done and I didn't need him. It made me feel good to take care of it myself and save money too.

I took the visegrip pliers off the d shaft and simply slid the new knob on with ease. I never doubted my abilities!