DBB3300EA1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Checked all thermostats, they were good. Circuit was getting 220 vac. Eventually found fuse in the back near the heating element, same was bad. By-passed same, and when we did, the timer Popped & arched !. Not sure why. Motor protectrion fuse found to be good. Heating elements good. Fuse was the only bad part found, never figured out what caused it to blow. Appliance was taken away after purchase of new one. Problem not found or resolved by self diagnostics. Originally the exhaust duct was somewhat clogged with lint, but not severely.

It took a while to diagnose the problem. I finally figured out it was the door switch by pushing it with my finger with the dryer door open and starting the dryer. It would run like that, but the switch was not being pressed in enough by the door. I ordered the switch and I should have been able to replace in about 15 min. But the old switch broke while I was removing it and it fell back inside the unit. So I had to remove the top and the front panel to access the door switch. That's why it took so long. If that had not happened it would have been a much simpler repair.

My dryer would run but not heat and the timer would not advance. PartSelect helped me determine that the heating element needed to be replaced. I have very little experience with appliance repair. I found this to be challenging but well worth it.

old dryer knob had lost its spring and would not turn on. simply pulled old knob off and replaced by pushing new knob onto shaft. voila! saved myself a service call.

I followed the varied instructions out there for getting the dryer open. WATCH the videos on uTube; I took out more screws than needed on first attempt -- which isn't a big deal but took me longer than it should have to pull it apart. It appeared the grinding was coming from the dryer bearings due to some abrasion I could see and worn front slides, so I replaced the front slides (4) and the rear bearing. The kids helped by crawling inside the drum to tighten the new bearing bolts (just for fun). When I put it back together it was making a somewhat different grinding noise. It wouldn't make any noise until I put the belt AND front cover on and then it would make a periodic (about every 10 degrees) grind when I rotated the drum; I took it apart and the grinding would stop even if I rotated the blower by hand. Put it together, the grind would start .... It took me awhile to figure out that the blower retaining bolt had come loose so the plastic blower was grinding on the metal cover. CHECK THE BLOWER RETAINING BOLT visible from the front with the dryer door/cover off -- it's not obvious that it's loose by looking at it since the retaining clip still sits over the blower shaft even when it's loose. You might even see small nicks in the blower fan blade. It's super quiet now.

1st I suspected it's just the timer knob so I ordered the knob. Soon as I was installing the knob it was too loose, when I inspected the timer stem it was also broke. So I ordered a timer. Soon as the timer arrived, I installed the timer and tested the dryer then it came on.

I grabbed the broken knob firmly and pulled it straight off. I took the new knob and pressed it firmly into place.

The old knob broke off & was no longer able to turn the pin to start the dryer. I simply slid the new knob onto the pin & it worked like new.

Took the dryer apart in an adjacent unused bedroom. Saw that the element was bad. Ordered new part from Part Select and installed when it arrived. The whole situation went as smooth as could be.

remove front and top cannover's from dryer.remove plastic inside bearing housing and plastic bearing slides replace worn out bearing slides with new ones. needed 4 bearings direction suggested only two....

After some research on the internet, I deduced the squeaking sound in our dryer was due to defective drum glides. I ordered a set of four of the white type, knowing only our model requires four glides, but not knowing there are two types for two locations. After disassembling the dryer I realized I needed more parts - two green slides and a new top bearing assembly. The dryer drum had eaten thru glides and into the plastic assembly. That was the reason for the squeaking noise - metal sliding against hard plastic. I ordered the additional parts directly from the manufacturer to ensure I got it right. After all the parts arrived, the repair was easy and took less than 30 minutes. I actually had my 17 year-old daughter do the work to teach her some skills. I just instructed her and stepped in on assembling the top that was just a bit tricky to put back on. Problem fixed.

TOO EASY to repair. WORKS GREAT>

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

1) Disconnect power supply. 2) Open dryer door to find and remove two screws through dryer top. 3) Proceed to lift front dryer top panel and tap rear of dryer top with hand to left to disengage tabs and remove dryer top completely. 4) Remove two screws through front panel. 5) Gently lift dryer front panel from base tabs to partial remove panel (careful of wires which remain connected) - pivot front panel to left with wires connected. 6) lift dryer barrel with left hand / reach under barrel with right hand to release belt from tensioner pulley (very easy one-hand maneuver). pull dryer barrel belt off tensioner pulley towards you, remove belt from motor pulley below. 7) lift/pull and remove dryer barrel and belt (flex side panels). 8) take picture of wire connection locations on heating element and remove wires from tabs two locations / 3 wires. 9) remove sensors 3 locations. 10) remove heating element and housing. 11) install new heating element / housing and reverse process. .....tip; belt tensioner pulley was biggest challenge at first because it was hard to see how it all worked and reach. once i realized i could force / lift the barrel up to gain better access it was much easier than trying to fit my arm through the one large available hole at bottom right (when looking at the unit). the tensioner pulley is opposite side (left when facing) and you would have to reach over the exhaust, etc.

Replaced drum bearing part and white slides.The problem was that it was not the drum slide support. It appears to be the the drum rear bearing of whch I am now ordering. The bearing replacement is a little more difficult, but I have taken this on as a challenge