DNCD450EG0WC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

First, I removed the 2 screws for the top panel, lifted the top panel off, then I removed the 2 screws holding the front panel, tilted it forward to clear the drum, disconnected the door switch and set the panel aside. I then installed the 4 slides on the new front bearing, removed the light socket from the old bearing, removed and discarded the old bearing. I installed the light socket into the new bearing and the bearing assembly snapped into place on the front panel. I then re-connected the door switch, aligned the front panel with the drum, secured the front panel with 2 screws, then carefully placed the top panel back in place and secured it with 2 screws. I checked the rotation of the drum and it worked like a champ. Matter of fact, that same day I put this dryer and a matching washer up for sale at 8:30 am on October 31st and by 9:20 am I already sold them!! I delivered and hooked them up and the dryer works great!!!

The video of the dryer lint chute assembly showed the man without gloves. I didn’t wear gloves. When I disconnected the wire from the front panel assembly, my hand jerked and hit the side of the panel. It must have been razor blade sharp, because I got a deep cut. Advise people to wear gloves to protect hands from sharp metal.

Pulled the unit all apart to replace the rear drum bearing. Also replaced the front bearing. Works like brand new. Easier then I thought

I've experienced same symptoms on previous dryers over the last 30+ years, so I immediately ordered a rear drum bearing replacement kit from PartSelect. Perfect replacement parts for replacement of OEM parts.

1) After unplugging dryer, moved it to garage because of expected dust and lint deposits.
2) Removing two screws under from top lip allows top to lift and rotate off of dryer.
3) Removing two screws inside on both sides allows the front panel to be removed. Just remember to lift drum when you pull pannel off.
4) Best to take front panel off completely, so remove single screw on green ground wire at lower left and disconnect the white two wire connector (pull apart). Three wires need to come off of door switch (yellow/brown and white leading from the dryer inerds and one white to the drum light). Best to tag or remember where they connect. Otherwise, white from inerds goes to switch common, y/b goes to normally open and bulb white goes to normally closed terminals.
5) Get someone with really skinny arms to reach in to slide drum belt off of idler pulley. Otherwise, long sleeves are a necessity to keep from getting sliced to pieces on sheet metal edges.
6) Lift drum out and away from dryer frame. It's a pretty tight fit so get a helper to spread the side panels apart a bit.
7) Replace both bearing pin in drum and bearing socket in heater pan, following instructions that come with the parts or the video that is on the PartSelect website.

Didn't expect the drum slides and top drum slide support to be worn out, so I had to order them ASAP from PartSelect. The slides were totally gone and the support assemble was effectively toast. You might seriously consider replacing the slides and the lower felt when you try to fix the squeeks, since they are a major source of the noise and take an additional 2-3 minutes to replace.
8) Reassembly of the dryer is just doing the above steps in reverse. Best to clean out as much lint/dust as possible, since a clean dryer is an efficient dryer and we all want to make our "green" friends happy nowadays.

pull top and front of dryer (6 screws), take belt off drum and pull drum out the front of dryer. Take the three star head screws out of stainless heat vent inside of drum and take old bearing housing out of back wall of dryer housing. Pretty much self evident putting everything back in, some trouble installing new bearing housing in back wall of dryer, screws are hard to turn in by hand (new hole). Vacum inside of dryer housing, install everything the way in came out, , plug it in and WA-LA.

I had already replaced the four (4) small wear strips which were like short strips of teflon, and the squeaking decreased almost completly. I noticed that front side of the drum itself had started to wear through the actual plastc drum bearing, but I hoped having previously replaced these tefon strips that would be the overall fix.
Wrong again... after a few weeks the squeeking continued until I ordered the new drum bearing and replaced the worn one with the new one. I was able to re-use the previous teflon wer strips, and it's like new now at least the squeaks are gone,

The actual fix was a very simple remove old drum bearing, snap in new drum bearing install old teflon wear strips put four screws in top, and front panel and I was back in business

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Removed that to screws for that top first and door shake top little to that front and I took two screws on that top each side and removed that front and lint trap and install the new

remove the broken one and replace it with the new one

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

Checked the fuse box to see if any breakers tripped on the two 120 lines feeding the dryer.

Checked for clogged exhaust vents/hose/etc, cleaned.

Some paint flaking off inner drum around heat vent.

Unplug & disassembled unit. Took pictures for reference to help with reassembly later. Upon removing drum, found sagging heat coils, one broken, some heat damage to the housing near the top. Determined that more than just coils needed replacing.

Also checked each of the three heat sensors (cycling thermostat, high limit thermostat & safety thermostat) with the digital multimeter. All were positive continuity for low temps.

Tested ONLY the cycling thermostat on the kitchen stove with burner set to warm. Check burner temp with meat thermometer to see it exceed 120F. Continuity broke at high temp. Although the cycling thermostat seemed ok with my generic test, I decided to replace it anyway.

My understanding of the Safety Thermostat & High Limit Thermostat is that they work like safety fuses, breaking at dangerous temps, but not resetting afterward. So these were only tested at room temperature, not with heat.

With the unit open, I checked other components for signs of wearing out. Also cleaned the unit more thoroughly.

Reassembled in stages. The belt is the trickiest part to get back on the motor & tension pulley, it's just a little awkward to reach. Tested to make sure the drum moved freely and belt was correct before finishing the reassembly.

Checked to make sure the dryer was still level, after all the moving around, disassembly & reassembly.

Ran several supervised test loads. Felt the temperature. No tripped breakers or smoke. Exhaust was flowing unhindered. Clothes got dry.

Easy repair, but did take a little longer than anticipated due to the extra cleaning that I did while the dryer was disassembled (highly recommend). First, unplug the power cord. Then, open the door, and locate the two screws in the upper corners, and remove. This will allow you to remove the top cover. Be careful and work the top panel up and down to loosen the control panel tabs, and set aside top panel. Next, remove the two screws located near the top on the inside of the front panel. Removing these two screws will allow you to lean the front panel forward, lift up, releasing the tabs holding the bottom of the panel. Be careful when you pull the front panel from the dryer as you will need to lift the drum off of the front bearing which is attached to the front panel as it is removed. You will also need to use your needle nose pliers to remove the wires prior to setting the panel aside. The wires are straight forward and power the light at the top, and the safety door switch. I always take a picture with my phone's camera just to validate when I re-connect them. Reaching underneath the drum you will be able to feel the belt and belt tensioner pulley. With both hands under the drum, use one hand to push the pulley to the right, releasing tension on the belt. Move the belt out of the groove, and let it hang freely. Now from the top of the drum, bump the drum to loosen, and remove from the cabinet. It is a tight fit, so you will need to spread the sides slightly in order to remove the drum. Next, remove the 3 screws holding the heat diffuser in the rear of the drum in order to remove the rear drum bearing. (Tip: It would be nice to have a helper hold the new drum bearing in place when starting the screws, and it also helped to tighten each a little at a time to keep the new bearing flat as it was drawn up next to the drum.) Tighten the screws holding the new bearing in place. Next, remove the 4 small screws holding the heating element housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Rather than disconnecting the wires, I used a bent coat hanger to hold the housing while I removed the bearing retainer and clip from the rear of the housing.) Remove the 4 screws holding the bearing retainer and clip, and replace with you new part, paying close attention to the clip's position, and tighten. Replace the housing to the rear of the dryer. (Tip: Now is a good time to familiarize yourself with the belt and tensioner pulley for reassembly. Also, it may be a good idea to look at your belt, and replace as needed.) Next, reinstall the drum and insert the new bearing shaft into the new bearing housing. Using both hands again, reach underneath the drum, locate the tensioner pulley, and belt. Push the tensioner pulley over to the right, and move belt over the pulley on the motor, and behind the tensioner pulley. The belt should be tight. If not, inspect to ensure that the belt is over the motor pulley, and the tensioner pulley. Next step is to reinstall the front panel. I also spent the extra money and replaced the front drum bearing, and slides. Please note that the green slides are on top, and the white slides are on the bottom. Lift the panel over the tabs, lean forward while lifting the tub, resting the tub on the front bearing. Reinstall two screws in the upper corners, and tighten the front panel back in place. Now is a good time to turn the drum to ensure that the belt is in place, and that the drum turns correctly. (Tip: If your dryer is equipped with a light, you may also want to replace the bulb in the front panel (if needed) prior to attaching the front panel.) Reinstall the top panel by aligning the tabs in the control panel with the top panel, being careful not to bend the tabs. Next, open the front door and use the 2 long screws to reattach the top panel to the front panel. Plug in power cord.

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

stuck it back in the holes just like the original handle. Had to do a little adjustment because I put screwdriver in them too many times to open the door after the original handle feel off, so the fit was loose. Fixed with tape.