DBL333EB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Dan from Fernley, NV
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
The switch was broken and had to use pliers to start dryer
Disconnected the power removed 4 screws from top panel. Removed 2 wires, turned switch counter clockwise. remopved switch. Replaced with new switch,connected the 2 wires, put panel back inplace,put screws back in panel,plugged dryer back in. SUPER SIMPLE Total time 5 minutes
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- Customer:
- Ken from Valdosta, GA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The old knob hasd split and wouldn't turn the dryer on
I took the visegrip pliers off the d shaft and simply slid the new knob on with ease. I never doubted my abilities!
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- Customer:
- Joseph from Middletown, NJ
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
Broken Dryer Knob
Removed and replaced knob.
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- Customer:
- Michael from Moyock, NC
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060, WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
switch broke
Remove the top of dryer, remove switch after two wires removed. Snapped in new switch and hooked wires and then put top back on.
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- Customer:
- Erin from Tucson, AZ
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken knob
The old knob broke off & was no longer able to turn the pin to start the dryer. I simply slid the new knob onto the pin & it worked like new.
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- Customer:
- Rene from Winter Garden, FL
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
The plastic Start knob broke
Just push the new knob over the metal pin
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- Customer:
- Adrienne from Beaver, PA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers
Start knob broke from being turned too far
Fortunately I watched the video on how to change the knob. I may not have noticed that the metal clip part of the old knob was still attached. Once the old part was removed, the new knob slid right into place.
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- Customer:
- Sue from Norfolk, MA
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
switha broke off
Removed old switch, replaced it with new
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- Customer:
- joseph from no. attleboro, MA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
broken knob on dryer
pushed replacement knob on shaft of dryer. machine works better than new. took less than 24 hours from time of order to time of delivery to my house.
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- Customer:
- Myron from Blairsville, GA
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
broken post on switch
removed 4 scewws deom case snapped out switch placed the new one attached two wires re attached with the 4 screws
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- Customer:
- Diane from Johnson Valley, CA
- Parts Used:
- WH01X10060
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
needed a new knob for my dryer
All I did was stick the knob on. How easy was that! Knob works every time. Very pleased with the part.
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- Customer:
- KENDALL from COCOA, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Inoperative Switch
Remove & rplace switch
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- Customer:
- GARY from HALEYVILLE, AL
- Parts Used:
- WE3X70
- Difficulty Level:
- Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench (Adjustable)
Lack of grease caused bearing to go out
I took the top and front off the dryer. I then took the screws out of the drum and removed the drum. I then took the old bearing out and put the new one in.
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- Customer:
- Randall from mcloud, OK
- Parts Used:
- WE4X881
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
Something fell off a shelf and broke the switch off
Replaced the start switch.
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- Customer:
- David from Etna, ME
- Parts Used:
- WE12X10009, WE25X10001
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
bearing saddle was damaged and distorted
Depending on the condition of the bearing there are two methods described here to change the bearing, the first (and easiest) is if the bearing saddle was not damaged to the point of not allowing the bearing to lift out of it and the second is for when the saddle is damaged.
There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.
Parts Needed
Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease.
Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.
Tools needed:
8mm open/box wrench
good philips head screwdriver
a stubby philips screwdriver
putty knife or wide flat screwdriver
some duct tape
ACCESS
First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed.
Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner.
remove the panel and set it out of the way.
Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into.
On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel.
Set this out of the way too.
REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR
The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom.
Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.
At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace.
Install procedures will be listed below.
REMOVING DRUM
FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE
If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy.
Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum.
Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.
FOR DAMAGED SADDLE
If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job.
First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside.
Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt.
This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to.
Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system.
Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi
There are a few items common to both methods so I will start with them and with the belt release.
Parts Needed
Bearing and Shaft kit. Do not bother replacing just bearing or just shaft, do the kit as it is the bearing/shaft and saddle and comes with new ball bearing and grease.
Belt. if going through all this trouble replace the belt while there.
Tools needed:
8mm open/box wrench
good philips head screwdriver
a stubby philips screwdriver
putty knife or wide flat screwdriver
some duct tape
ACCESS
First, unplug the power to the unit and shut the gas off. You'll be working around the motor and burner so this is needed.
Then using the putty knife or flat screwdriver remove the top panel by depressing the latches in the horizontal seam on the front side approx 2" in from each corner.
remove the panel and set it out of the way.
Now unhook the door sensor wires and mark or store them in a manner so you will remember which side of the switch they plug into.
On each corner approx 6" down there is a philips screw, remove these and tilt the front panel forward (to clear the drum and duct seals) then lift upwards to remove the door panel.
Set this out of the way too.
REMOVE BELT FROM MOTOR
The motor pulley and tensioner are hard to see but can be done blind just by feel, they are on the lower right front side of the unit. Reach in on each side of the motor and with left hand push the tensioner towards the right side while with right hand pulling down on the tensioner spring (its a weak spring) to release it from the metal tab on bottom.
Once this is down the tensioner will move to the left and the belt can be removed from the drive puller easily.
At this point you can slide the belt forward and remove it and slide new belt on if you are only doing a belt replace.
Install procedures will be listed below.
REMOVING DRUM
FOR NON-DAMAGED SADDLE
If the saddle is not damaged you can now jerk up (not too much force) on the rear of the drum and this will pop the shaft bearing end out of the saddle. Then carefully slide the drum forward through the cabinet to a palce you can access it easy.
Remove the shaft and bearing from the drum by removing the three phillips screws whose heads are inside the drum.
Now remove the saddle from the cabinet by removing the 2 bolts (8mm head) that go trough the rear, there is a ball bearing in the saddle that may be useful to save in case you drop the new one and there is a screwplate on exterior rear that will fall when you remove the final bolt.
FOR DAMAGED SADDLE
If the saddle is damaged (distorted) the procedure is a bit different and quite a bit harder, but not awful bad. It adds about 20 to 60 minutes extra (depends on how the screws come out) to the whole job.
First remove the drum from the shaft by unscrewing the three philips head screws from inside the drum and, like in prior method, carefully pull the drum through the front of the cabinet and set it aside.
Then to remove the saddle you may be able to remove the two 8mm head bolts by flexing the plate to the side and loosening each bolt a bit while alternating. However I had to actually move the burner ducts a bit to get at mine as I could not turn the left side bolt.
This is where the stubby screwdriver is needed, there are 4 philips screws whose heads are hidden by the seals on the ducts, by folding the seal back a bit you can access them. I was able to just do the three at the top, left, and lower left and slide the duct a bit to allow wrench access to the bolt. I did not have to remove the lowest screw myself but you may need to.
Always make sure to not bend the tin too much and this will hurt heat movement through the system.
Once you have the saddle removed, rememberi
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Thank you for voting!