XTD72E8ST1WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

After checking the obvious things such as household circuit breaker and verifying that the dryer power outlet did indeed have the proper voltage supply, I started troubleshooting the dryer itself. The "partselect.com" website has a lot of good troubleshooting information. I used it to narrow my search and began by checking the fuse located where the power cord connects to the dryer. From there I used the information that the website provided for finding and checking the overtempt switch for the dryer. It's located in a very hard position to get to, and it was indeed bad. I ordered a new one from the "partselect.com" website and started checking my dryer exhaust vent hose for a blockage, as that was the most practical cause for the overtempt switch to fail. Once I verified that the exhaust was clear from any obstruction, I set my sights on removing the bad overtempt switch.

I have over 30 years' experience troubleshooting and repairing both AC and DC electrical and electronic circuits and systems. I'm 6'4" and have very big hands and it was next to impossible for me to get my hands in a position to loosen and remove the 1 screw that was holding the switch in place. After an hour or so I was finally able to remove the switch. There was no way that I was going to be able to successfully install the new switch due to the lack of space. I ended up going back to the "partselect.com" website to see if anyone else had this same issue and found a way to overcome it. After few minutes of reading thru different installation comments from other people, I found one that had the key to quickly and accurately installing the switch. This person used a drill and drilled a hole in the back panel of the dryer to gain access to the screw that holds the switch in place. So, I drilled a small 1/8" hole in the back panel directly across from where the head of the screw was. I used several more drill bits and worked my way up to a 1/2" sized bit. Then, I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 10" extension and 1/4" socket to install the screw retaining the switch. I reassembled the dryer and have had no other trouble since.

Took the front panel off. 2 screws on top of the front panel when you open the door, 2 right next to the door opening. Next gently pry up the top panel in the front of the dryer to remove 2 black screws in the front corners. Now the front panel can gently be pulled back and then lift up and the frpnt panel can be put to side. Now you have acces to remove and replace the drum bearing glides. They just clip in. Also a good time to inspect the belt and clean out the dryer.

Remove two screws on the back of dryer that hold the Control panel on. The panel is hooked on to the dryer so carefully remove that. The timer knob has several wires hook into it so take a picture for reference. Remove the screws, remove and install new timer. Now transfer the wires over to the new timer one at a time to avoid confusion. Reinstall the the control panel.

removed old lint trap cleaned excess lint that fell inside from the broken lint trap made it easier for new lint trap to slide in.

Ordered parts and installed with YOUTUBE video.
Model A little different than showed online, There was a Metal protector over the Door switch that need to be taken off before switch could be located.
After detachment of dryer door, easily pushed the seal to one side to dislocate the metal protector.
Would of took 30 minutes to complete if had not been for the Metal protector they added to cover the switch.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Removed detective timer. Reversed process to in stay new part.

Son found out where the bulb was by using YouTube. I googled lamp for model number and your website came up. I ordered the part, it arrived promptly, and my son installed it.

Replaced the rear drum bearing, Front drum bearing,front bearing tabs and belt. I replaced the belt from the front of dryer. Better to go thru the back. Much easier.

Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.

UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.

The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.

If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.

TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.

IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.

Step 1: Remove the control panel

To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.

Step 2: Remove the lid

There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.

Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses

Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)

Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to

There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.

Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)

There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.

Step 5: Replace the slides

The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.

Step 6: Putting it all back together

Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.

It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.

Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!

I researched the problem-ordered the part-watched a tutorial on Part Select website and replaced the old part with the new-couldn’t have been used asier

Simply aligned the knob and put it on.

Just had to push it on. That's All.