GTD84GCPN2DG General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Your site offered a video tutorial that removed any anxiety about doing the repair correctly. Removed front of dryer, disconnected wire assembly going to the front, replaced seal in seconds, returned dryer to original set up. simple. luckily. very easy to use website.

Took unit practically apart to remove old parts and install new part. Unit is like new.

Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!

replaced felt on inside door that drum rides on

1. turn off gas.2. disconnect electric.3.Remove 3/8 gas line from rear of burner. 4.disconnect two electric connectors from gas valve assembly. 5.disconnect electric line from igniter. 6.remove two mounting sheet metal screws from front of gas valve assembly(5/16 socket). There also may be a screw holding assembly to the bottom plate.7. remove entire assembly from dryer by pulling out to the front. 8.remove igniter assembly and replace on new burner. 9. two sheet metal screws 1/4 inch hold burner assembly to gas valve assembly.10.Install in reverse order . it may take a few seconds for the gas to get down to the burner. don't forget to change over the air mix valve to the same place.

Took the back off/there were six phillips head screws. Took the protective cover off the Interlock Switches and found the problem. One of the buttons was jambed and would not move. I pulled the switch up and pulled the connecting wires. This took a little bit of doing as the connectors have been set for over 8 years. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. I reconnected the new switch and punched both switches and the washer started. It was an easy repair after that, putting everything back in reverse order.

Followed the directions from the video about that particular part. I am 57 and it was fairly simple to do.

My son ordered the part, but gave up installing it. We called in a professional appliance repairman because the dryer had to be partially dismantled to remove the drum and a belt so three sets of holes could be aligned to secure the replacement diffuser. My daughter had to lend a hand to hold one piece in place while the repairman threaded the screws because the drum was too deep for him to be able to reach both front and back pieces. Definitely not a one-person job for this particular model.

Took off the top cover then took off the front panel and installed the new coils on gas valve.

I'm a 90 pound mother of 4you and was able to fix this problem all by myself. Very easy!

I actually did this in two attempts. First I tried to replace just the solenoid coils as they were cheaper and I thought they weren't opening the gas valve all the way. However, the noise persisted, so I had to spend the bigger $$ on the entire gas valve assembly. Finding videos on-line of how to remove the drum helped out a lot! Basically had to remove the console back panel, then the console followed by the front door assy and stop panel screws. Once the top was removed, had to remove a top drum brace which then enabled me to remove the drum once I reached underneath to remove the drum belt from the tensioner and motor. With the drum removed, I could get complete access to the gas valve assy. In retrospect, the drum may not have to come out to get at the screws that hold the gas valve and burner in place.