GTD38GASW0WS General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

4 screws, that was it

open the dryer door, locate the 2 screws that hold the top in place, unscrew them

then locate the 2 screws (located near the top of the dryer (facing toward you) and unscrew them

allow the front of the dryer to tilit out towards you, replace the felt, slide the drum back into place into the front of the dryer, resecure the 2 screws (removed last)

lower top of dryer back in place, being careful to make sure the top clips back in correctly.

re-install the 2 screws that secure the dryer top to the front.

boom, you are done....

Amazingly easy work...

first ,removed two screws from inner door lining.removed top by lifting front up and off.removed two screws holding front panel onto side panels.lift and pull up front panel away from main body of dryer.turned it around watching not to damage wires. remove old felt and install new felt.put everything back together in reverse.dryer works great.

no problem open top remove front install new belt

Removed the top of the dryer 2 screws. procedure
open dryer door. At the top of the dryer door their is
two screws left to right, Remove them and lift top
off. Inside where the top was is two screws left to
right. Remove the two screws and take the front
panel off. Carefull not to pull wireing loose. Lean door against something so you don't have to disasemble wireing. Pull broken belt out and install new belt around tumbler and up and over
tension pulley and pull down and slip over the motor pulley. Your'e done. Reassemble front then
top. My dryer ran just fine after these steps. The question and answers helped me do this.

This is a space saver one piece unit with dryer on top. I first removed ten screws that hold the top on, I then removed four more screws that hold the front service cover on and two last screws that hold the rear service cover on. Now I seperated the front cover of the dryer from the dryer tumbler tub and slipped the new belt around the tub, then at the rear service cover I feed the belt through the tensioner and back onto the motor pully. Now just put the covers back in reverse order of removal and all done! "Piece of cake"
Ron

I'm a 90 pound mother of 4you and was able to fix this problem all by myself. Very easy!

Removing the top and then the front of the dryer went fairly easily after finding the screws. The drum came out with just a little coaxing, does not gets screwed in place. To me the trickiest maneuver was getting my hand under the drum to place the belt over motor pulley and around the tensioner pulley. You must look up an image of the belt routing. It took me forever to figure that out. If not for that, this in a half hr fix. Ps don't forget to unplug the dryer.

replaced felt on inside door that drum rides on

Put part in. Put the door cover on & turned on & it worked. Thanks for having the part. So far, so good.

Took the back off/there were six phillips head screws. Took the protective cover off the Interlock Switches and found the problem. One of the buttons was jambed and would not move. I pulled the switch up and pulled the connecting wires. This took a little bit of doing as the connectors have been set for over 8 years. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. I reconnected the new switch and punched both switches and the washer started. It was an easy repair after that, putting everything back in reverse order.

Unscrewed the top lid screws located in door opening.Removed lid.Unscrewed the front cover screws located at top corners of cover, underneath where the top lid was.Pulled out drum,removing belt at same time.Removed the rear bearing unit,installed new one.Really easy.Took front bearing off front cover,it just snaps on.Installed new bearing,with 4 new slides.Reassembled machine,replacing old belt at the same time.Done.It really is that easy.Spent more time cleaning lint out of dryer interior than actual mechanical work,I think.

Watched the video associated with the repair and followed the instructions, it was easier that I thought it was going to be.

Followed the detailed instructions provided when I bought the parts at the online website. Very good directions diagrams/pictures and explanation of repair effort required

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.