GTD33EASK1WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

I just popped in the new Filter and it fit perfectly. This will prolong the dryer use, looks like new.

Thank you Part Select.

One Happy customer

remove top of cabinet and front panel. placed belt around drum and replaced idler pully placed new belt around pully and was done. not a hard job at all. replced front panel and top. thanks to a speedy delivery of my parts dryer was only down two days.

Lift the lint filter and slide the 2 hooked ends into the 2 holes provided . Front end is locked in as other end is suspended .

Removed the timer knob, removed the back panel, removed the timer and installed the timer and knob.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Check for 240 at back of dryer, replaced all three thermostats around coil on rear panel, including high limt thermo,, but still no heat.

Not sure if coil is bad or if there is another thermostat or fuse around blower.

Found the dryer's high limit thermostat had opened up.
Likely cause was excessive lint buildup in exhaust vent pipe to outside.
Used wire nuts to "temporarily" bypass thermostat and cleaned out the vent pipe
When new part arrived...

Removed control panel screws and panel was laid on top of dryer
Removed back panel screws.
Removed top panel screws. Lifted to allow right side swing out slightly.

I did not have sufficient tool to reach the thermostat therefore I reamed out a hole in the rear panel above the thermostat fastener screw to allow a long handle screwdriver into the area for replacement.

Removed temporary bypass and used wire nuts to utilize dryers' thermostat existing wiring.

Very good. Really only one screw holding the timer in place. It was a little difficult finding the right tool to use to remove that screw. But, once found, it was a easy as pie!

stuck new knob on spindle.

Took out interlock switch (two leads) and replaced with new one. As simple as that.

Replaced the timer. did not fix the overheating problem, replaced the High limit thermostat and that did not fix the problem, new timer does not function, does not time.

After checking the obvious things such as household circuit breaker and verifying that the dryer power outlet did indeed have the proper voltage supply, I started troubleshooting the dryer itself. The "partselect.com" website has a lot of good troubleshooting information. I used it to narrow my search and began by checking the fuse located where the power cord connects to the dryer. From there I used the information that the website provided for finding and checking the overtempt switch for the dryer. It's located in a very hard position to get to, and it was indeed bad. I ordered a new one from the "partselect.com" website and started checking my dryer exhaust vent hose for a blockage, as that was the most practical cause for the overtempt switch to fail. Once I verified that the exhaust was clear from any obstruction, I set my sights on removing the bad overtempt switch.

I have over 30 years' experience troubleshooting and repairing both AC and DC electrical and electronic circuits and systems. I'm 6'4" and have very big hands and it was next to impossible for me to get my hands in a position to loosen and remove the 1 screw that was holding the switch in place. After an hour or so I was finally able to remove the switch. There was no way that I was going to be able to successfully install the new switch due to the lack of space. I ended up going back to the "partselect.com" website to see if anyone else had this same issue and found a way to overcome it. After few minutes of reading thru different installation comments from other people, I found one that had the key to quickly and accurately installing the switch. This person used a drill and drilled a hole in the back panel of the dryer to gain access to the screw that holds the switch in place. So, I drilled a small 1/8" hole in the back panel directly across from where the head of the screw was. I used several more drill bits and worked my way up to a 1/2" sized bit. Then, I used a 1/4" drive socket set with a 10" extension and 1/4" socket to install the screw retaining the switch. I reassembled the dryer and have had no other trouble since.

Dryer knob was not clicking on timer. Took knob off &saw that was a crack in it. Looked up model #&went on your website&ordered the same knob. Received quickly. Put the new knob on &itworked.Just had to line up 2 flats parts on knob & dryer.went right on.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat