3636154241 General Electric Dryer - Instructions
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- Customer:
- Karl from Milford, NE
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37317, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Clothes were catching between the drum and front of dryer. Also was squeaking at times.
Opened dryer door and removed two screws that held front of top panel on. Lifted top panel off and removed two screws that held front panel to side panels. Tipped front panel forward and replaced all four slides. Cleaned everything off and put back together. Works great again. Thanks for this site and for others that have done these repairs before and posted their stories.
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- Customer:
- Brian from Kilgore, TX
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37317, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
squeeky drum
Pull the two scews to release the top of the cabinet. Pull the two screws to release the face of the cabinet and tilt out.
Take the old slide out and install the new ones.
Put it back together.
No more squeeks
My wife thinks I'm a genius...
Take the old slide out and install the new ones.
Put it back together.
No more squeeks
My wife thinks I'm a genius...
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- Customer:
- ruoli from Germantown, MD
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer's drum doesn't run
Follow YouTube "how to change dryer's belt" some video is very clear.
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- Customer:
- Darin from MEDINA, MN
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37320, WE03X37319
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Replace dryer front bearing slides
If your dryer is making a grinding or loud plastic rubbing noise, you likely need to replace the slides. Here is how I did it.
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
TIP: Before beginning, set out a hand towel on the washing machine to set the screws onto, in the order and position you removed them.
IMPORTANT: Before beginning, turn off the gas to the unit and unplug it! This repair is all done from the front side of the machine, so you should only need to slide it out enough to unplug it.
Step 1: Remove the control panel
To do this, you need to pull out on the round silver control knob to remove it. This will expose a long screw. With the long screw removed, grab the panel with both hands and slide it straight up. Be careful, the control board is still connected with a 40-pin ribbon cable. Set the control board on top of the dryer temporarily.
Step 2: Remove the lid
There are three screws to remove the lid. Remove them and set them on the screw holding towel. The lid is attached at the back, so to remove it you need to slide it forward towards the front of the unit. Once the lid is loose, you can have a helper hold the control panel while you set the lid aside, or gently let the control panel dangle.
Step 3: Disconnect the control panel and wiring harnesses
Gently pull on the 40-pin ribbon connector until the control panel ribbon cable is removed. There is a notch to designate which direction the ribbon cable it goes back in. Set the control panel to the side. At the same time, you can disconnect the two wiring harnesses that feed the door light and sensor. These wiring harnesses are secured to a silver plate with a zip tie. Cut the zip tie with your diagonal cutters. (You can trim the old zip tie and replace it by feeding the extra small zip tie through the original opening later.)
Step 4: Remove the steel plate that the wiring harnesses were attached to
There are 6 screws to remove the steel plate. Pay attention to where the extra large head screws go, because these are what the control panel slides onto, when you put things back together. Pull out on each side to release the bottom clips, then slide it upwards. Set this piece aside.
Step 4: Remove the front panel (the door panel)
There are 4 screws to loosen the door panel. Two silver screws at the top, and 2 white screws at the bottom. Loosen the white screws about half way. These do not need to be completely removed because the door can rest on them. Remove the top silver screws. Gently lift the dryer drum off the front bezel while you tilt the front panel towards you. At this point you should be able to see the white and dark green slides. I found it easier to lift the front door off the white screws and set it up against the wall.
Step 5: Replace the slides
The slides have plastic hooks that go through the round holes on one end to hold them in place. You should be able to remove the slides with your fingers (maybe with a little help from a flat-head screwdriver), and replace them. There are dozens of YouTube videos on how to do this if you need help. Be careful not to break the plastic hooks that hold the slide to the front plastic bezel. Replace white slides with the white, and the dark green slides with dark green.
Step 6: Putting it all back together
Do everything in reverse. Set the front panel in the white screws, lift the drum, and slide the door panel back to rest on the slides while you put back the silver screws. Give the drum a few good spins manually to make sure there isn't anything still rubbing. Keep in mind the sliding noise is slightly louder than normal until all the panels are replaced.
It will help the process to only tighten the screws half way while putting them all back in. Once everything aligns, then you can tighten them down. DO NOT over tighten, use hand tightness only or you will strip them out. With the front door panel back on, you can put the steel panel back in place. Once you have the 6 screws done, remember to slide a small zip tie through the previous hole to secure the wiring harnesses. Connect the harnesses, and the front panel ribbon cable before putting the lid back on. Insert the screws to the lid, then slide the control panel back down, and replace the single long screw. Note that the control knob is notched, so align the flat sides as you put it back in.
Plug it back in, and turn back on the gas, you are done!
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- Customer:
- David from LAWRENCEVILLE, GA
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
The dryer drum wasn't spinning, but I could hear the motor and feel the heat from the heating element.
UNPLUG the dryer. I removed the top panel by removing the two screws at the top of the dryer door. There are some hooks toward the back of the top panel, so you'll need to slide it to the left to get it off. The front panel needs to be removed by removing two screws just inside the top left and right corners. Lift and set it aside. I didn't disconnect the door wiring, but you can if you need to do so. I just spun the front panel to the left and out of the way. With the drum exposed, I confirmed the belt was broken. I replaced the belt, then the front panel and top panel. While I was inside the dryer, I did a through cleaning with the vacuum to get all the lint.
The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.
The video on the site is easy to understand and a snap to follow.
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- Customer:
- Amy from Round Pond, ME
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37317, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
My dryer was making a really loud, high pitched squeak and eventually a grinding noise
I order the parts needed to replace the slides, the felt ,and the bearing on a Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived on Tuesday even though I used regular shipping. I followed the instructions posted by another customer. It was extremely easy and only took me about fifteen minutes. My only problem was that I needed 2 each of the front slide and the rear slide, and I unknowingly only ordered 1 of each. I order the other 2 on Tuesday via regular shipping and they arrived on Wed. AMAZING!!!!
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- Customer:
- Brad from Batavia, IL
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37317, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
loud screeching and long dry times
When we first heard the screeching i thought right away that it was the belt. we ordered a new one and after i replaced it the dryer was still just as loud. I wished i went here first. Right away i found others with the same problem, did the same repair which was just taking 2 screws out, sliding the top and front panel off(watch for the electric wire connected to the panel) and replace a couple of plastic slides. now it is better than ever.
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- Customer:
- Mark from salem, NH
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897, WE03X37317
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
slides worn and belt broken
Unplugged power. removed 2 screws to take of top cover. once inside removed 2 more screws to slide front panel of. I first replaced slides on front panel. I then lift drum and installed new belt. Only trick is to make sure you wrap belt around tension arm pully properly. Basically a very easy job
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- Customer:
- Phillip from Kissimmee, FL
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37317, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 15 - 30 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Loud noise
First I watched the repair video on partselect.com and that really helped. It was really easy to replace the slides. I even ordered a new top bearing, old one was busted, and replaced it. Thank you for your help.
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- Customer:
- John from SONOMA, CA
- Parts Used:
- WE03X37317, WE03X37318
- Difficulty Level:
- Very Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
thumping noise with any kind of load
looked at video of dryer disassemble, replaced 4 bearing slides, reassembled. Dryer is perfect now , no noise. thank you for your parts.
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- Customer:
- Lynell from PITTSBURGH, PA
- Parts Used:
- WH49X27616
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Nutdriver, Screw drivers
The rear right rod that stabilizes the tub disconnected from the frame
This was the third time the same rod had disconnected from the frame of the washer. The first time, it took us all day to fix it, trying to hold the tub up and reconnect the rod. The second time it disconnected, it took us all day again. This time fortunately one of the black stabilizer rubber tubing broke off from the tub cover. Thank goodness I found part select, read the reviews on installation and ordered the entire tub cover kit. They had the best price and I received it in 2 days. This time it took an hour to repair!!
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- Customer:
- Alvino from newtown, CT
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- A Bit Difficult
- Total Repair Time:
- 1- 2 hours
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
Dryer belt was broken
I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair
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- Customer:
- janet from martinsville, IN
- Parts Used:
- WE1X1192
- Difficulty Level:
- Really Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- Less than 15 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers
dryer did not latch
easy to fix took less than 10 minutes
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- Customer:
- joseph a from VALLEY STREAM, NY
- Parts Used:
- WE03X29897
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Pliers, Screw drivers
belt broke
had a great video to follow, made it easy to install.
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- Customer:
- Samuel from PHILADELPHIA, PA
- Parts Used:
- WE03X25079, WE03X37319
- Difficulty Level:
- Easy
- Total Repair Time:
- 30 - 60 mins
- Tools:
- Screw drivers, Wrench set
Dryer made noise and squeaked the entire time the dryer was running.
I watched the Parts Select video with Steve and he showed me how to do the repair. Took the top cover off and front door panel, I did not undo the wiring on the door switch. Removed the old top bearing (it snaps in and out) put the new one in placed the glide bearing put everything back together and no more noise. It worked.
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