PTD90GBPT1DG General Electric Dryer - Instructions

removed old lint trap cleaned excess lint that fell inside from the broken lint trap made it easier for new lint trap to slide in.

Took the front panel off. 2 screws on top of the front panel when you open the door, 2 right next to the door opening. Next gently pry up the top panel in the front of the dryer to remove 2 black screws in the front corners. Now the front panel can gently be pulled back and then lift up and the frpnt panel can be put to side. Now you have acces to remove and replace the drum bearing glides. They just clip in. Also a good time to inspect the belt and clean out the dryer.

Shortly after a piece of felt (the duct felt seal) was visible on the drum intererior, the dryer started making metal-on-metal squeaks. A few weeks later it started leaving'machine part' type brown/black marks on clothes. With the model # it was quite easy to find and order the correct part, which arrived a few days later. The accompanying video made installation quite straightforward, even for someone who's NEVER worked on a dryer before - even though the model used wasn't the same. Over half the repair time was to clean out lint and dirt from the various exposed parts. Overall, an easy and effective repair that solved the staining issue. Follow the video and you won't go wrong.

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

4 screws, that was it

open the dryer door, locate the 2 screws that hold the top in place, unscrew them

then locate the 2 screws (located near the top of the dryer (facing toward you) and unscrew them

allow the front of the dryer to tilit out towards you, replace the felt, slide the drum back into place into the front of the dryer, resecure the 2 screws (removed last)

lower top of dryer back in place, being careful to make sure the top clips back in correctly.

re-install the 2 screws that secure the dryer top to the front.

boom, you are done....

Amazingly easy work...

The top and front of the dryer had to come off, and taking off the top (and later putting it back on) was the hardest part. The old seal was stretched approximately two feet longer than the replacement part, and its thinness caused the drum to squeak as it scraped by the door panel. We simply pressed the new seal into place after pulling out the old one. Piece of cake. Putting the front of the dryer back on was simple as well. Fitting the top back into its slots properly was the biggest pain of the whole ordeal. The part came in about 2 days. Thanks!

As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.

Removed the 3 star screws, putting in a piece if wire as I removed them. Wire was not stiff enough and let the drum slip thus binding making it hard to remove. Started over. Finally called a friend for help. I bought 3 tension pins the same size as the screws. When removing the diffuser screws, insert a tension pin in the hole as you remove each of the screws. The tension pins are hard metal and do not have a head. The diffuser will slip over them. After the diffuser was in place, we turned on the dryer to make sure it was running ok. I noticed what looked like lint toward the front. It was part of the felt gasket on the front of the drum and front of the dryer. We removed the screws on the dryer front and pulled it forward. The felt was rethreaded into its slot, put the front back in place,and replaced the screws that hold everything in place. If you turn the part of the dryer that spins by hand, make sure you are turning it in the correct direction. Turning it the wrong way is probably what caused the felt gasket to come loose causing more work.

first ,removed two screws from inner door lining.removed top by lifting front up and off.removed two screws holding front panel onto side panels.lift and pull up front panel away from main body of dryer.turned it around watching not to damage wires. remove old felt and install new felt.put everything back together in reverse.dryer works great.

Watched the video associated with the repair and followed the instructions, it was easier that I thought it was going to be.

Followed the detailed instructions provided when I bought the parts at the online website. Very good directions diagrams/pictures and explanation of repair effort required

The repair was easy. First I took out 2 screws. Then I lifted off the top. Next I unscrewed 2 to take off front. I leaned off the front and reached in got out old gasket. Replacing new gasket went right around top front panel under the clips. Putting front on and returning 2 screws. Then Same for top. Dryer runs and sounds like new. Thank You for your quick mail and easy help?

Your site offered a video tutorial that removed any anxiety about doing the repair correctly. Removed front of dryer, disconnected wire assembly going to the front, replaced seal in seconds, returned dryer to original set up. simple. luckily. very easy to use website.

I yanked on the piece of twisted felt and pulled it from between the drum and the frame. Model number and serial number were gotten from the placard inside the door frame. A schematic was found on line and the part ordered from that picture. The whole thing is held together by four Phillips head screws. Two are upside down in the top of the door frame on either side. A hand held impact driver with a #2 Phillips bit was necessary to dislodge those two screws. The remainder of the job was done with just a #2 Phillips screwdriver. After the two upside down screws are out the top just lifts off. It's held at the back only by location slots. The two remaining screws are under the top on the extreme left and right of the front and face downward. These hold the front door panel onto the frame. Be careful when removing the front panel with the door on it as there are wires near the bottom left corner that must not be ripped out of the door panel. What remained of the old gasket was removed from the grooves in the plastic inner panel upon which the front of the drum rides. The new gasket was put in place in that groove. Reassembly is just the reverse of disassembly. There's no reason to tighten down the two screws holding the top on with the impact driver when putting it back together.