GTR12BAXBB General Electric Dryer - Instructions

After finding the belt was broken, I also discovered the idler pulley was broke. Your website made it incredibly easy to identify and purchase the parts. This is my third great experience with your site. The last repair was the whole front bearing assembly and that went very smooth thanks to your site. Keep up the great work and thanks again.

Ordered new timer with overnight delivery and thought all was well. Replaced timer and still didn't work. Am embarrassed to admit all was wrong was that the timer knob was broken and spun around. But am typing this so someone else might check the knob first of all before going to all the trouble of replacing the timer. Although it was an easier job than I thought. About 15 minutes after I got the dryer pulled out. Oh well, have a new timer and knob now and got to clean out behind the washer and dryer which was needed and the dryer vent also. All is well now!

My husband broke the door handle, but of course, i had to be the one to order the part & fix it. I ordered the part on the weekend and much to my suprise it was on my doorstep on Tuesday when I got home from work. Then I saw the part was shipped from nearby Louisville. I was overly happy with partselect!!!!! All I did was open the packaging and clip the dryer handle into the 4 holes. Easy as pie!!!!

I first unplugged the unit, opened the top, disconnected and took off the control panel, took off the front panel to determine the source of the squeaking noise coming from the Dryer. I saw that 3 of the 4 Front Drum Glides were gone and the drum had worn away significant amounts of plastic from the Top Bearing Assembly. I purchased the Top Bearing Assembly and a set of 4 Front Drum Glides. Disassembled the damaged parts and reassembled with the new replacement parts. The reassembly took less than 20 minutes. I plugged in the Dryer and viola! It works as good as new.

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed

Removed panel to access the interlock switches. There were two. The button on one switch was fine and the button on the other would not depress. Ran a continuity test and it failed. The switch also had a burnt smell

Instructions say run capacitor is by motor, but on this frige its in the refrigerator compartment. The capacitors looks different, one square and the other long

Ordered the icemaker replacement. unplugged the unit, followed the simple instructions and got it done in less than 30 minutes. It did take a LONG time to start making ice. But it's working now.

I FOLLOWED YOUR VIDEO............WAS EASY. THANKS

Installation was super easy. I just removed first both drawers and then the base where the glass was installed, placed the new glass there carefully making sure that it fitted inside the gap to secure it and place everything back to the fridge the way it was. Presto!

This kept the interlock open and shut off the dryer when the door swung open The broken latch was popped out using a flat blade screwdriver and the replacement snapped into place by hand. Good as new!

Was concerned that new icemaker was quite a bit different than the one we were replacing. Called GE to confirm it was correct.

Went ahead and installed the unit, using the supplied electric cable adapter.

A little difficult to deal with the extra cable, but everything worked OK and it's making ice normally.

Just slipped it on. No problems, No Tools.

Originally I thought that the Start switch was the issue, and ordered one. After taking the machine apart and running some tests, the issue was clearly not this switch, but a different switch that cuts power when the belt tension is no longer being applied to the idler pulley spring. I fixed this by bypassing this switch, which in my opinion, is error prone and serves no purpose. The switch can be accessed by removing the control panel, then top cover, then front cover, then drum. The bogus switch is screwed to the bottom left, near the motor. The idler pulley spring rests against it. Just disconnect the switch wires, then clip, strip and crimp then together to bypass the switch, and voila! Now if the belt breaks or comes off the pulley, the motor will continue to run, but you wont hear the wet clothes flopping around, so that will be the indication that you have a belt problem. Hope that helps!

Despite attempts to quiet the 2 year old fan, I went ahead and replaced it. Part Select was prompt with a new one at my door less than 24 hours. It was just the fan motor, so took a couple extra steps to place it in the metal housing, but no problems and though the frig still makes noises, it's not coming from the fan as before.