DPXB515EB0CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Looked up the problem and solution on the web and,ah-ha, drum slides should be the cure. Easy to install, . Back to the internet to discover that after the slides, the bearing and felt liner were the next likely culprits. Again easy install, but to no avail. Calling in the pros.

Repair was VERY easy - 4 screws total! Used google to find a video online that showed the steps.

r/r parts unit runs great

Took off the top and front of the dryer---really easy, just two screws for each. Put new drum slides (4) on the front/sides of the drum. Then things got a little bit more difficult. Removed the drum entirely, vaccuumed everything out and had to replace the rear bearings. My husband did this part so I can't tell you exactly how he did it. Not too difficult though. The written directions from here were hard to read---need to make a new copy from the original as it's so copied that it's all smudged. Anyway, once we got the new bearings on, we put everything back together. Dryer works like a charm, at a fraction of the cost it would have been to get someone out to do it. Thanks a bunch for the fast service!

I was teaching my associate how to do this repair so I showed him how to take off the top of the dryer. Then I showed him how to replace the drum slides. I had him clean out the dryer since we had it apart, and I also showed him how to remove the drum and then reinstall it. This was a very easy repair, and he learned a lot that he otherwise would not have known. Thanks for getting the parts to me so quickly. Rob from Clarks Summit.

Had a repairman tell me I needed a new controller for about $350 so I decided to do it myself...found the schematic and tested the termisters. One of them was much lower than the range so I ordered a part of the web (here)...The diagram shows the thermistor and the safety switch so I ordered the wrong part (out $40). Ordered the other part which turned out to be the thermister. Took two weeks to get through this..Sure enough it worked!

First I got the front bearing, found out I needed the slides too. It was binding at first, so I undid an earlier misadjustment I made (on the back drum mount). and it works!

Your instructions were execellent
Problem is solve
Thank you

I ordered and replaced the front and rear bearings, including the slides that go on the front bearing. Most of this was un-necessary; replacing the slides would have been sufficient, and much easier to do. Two of the old slides were worn completely away.

Easier than I thought it would be. I was hoping it was the front bearing because replacing the rear bearing looked pretty gnarly. Unplugged the dryer from the outlet. Removed two screws inside the door frame. Lifted the top off. Unscrewed the two screws holding the front on. Lifted the front panel off, careful of the wires going to the door. Popped out the old front bearing by releasing the two clips at the top. The old bearing was pretty trashed. The two grey/green slides were in tatters and one of the white ones was missing. Not too much lint inside the dryer, but the lint trap was pretty clogged. Cleaned the insides out with the shop-vac. Inserted the new slides into the new bearing an snapped it back into place, careful to make sure the light went in the hole. The felt gasket at the botton was in good shape so did not replace it. Replaced the panels screwed them back to together and it fired up smooth and quiet.

This is the 2nd time we had to replace the slides. Not a big deal. Removed the top & front of the dyer and replaced the new slides. It's also a good time to vacuum out the inside while you have it apart. Be advised.... Get your tools ready. You'll be receiving your parts quickly. Couldn't believe how fast they arrived!

I watched the installation video a of couple of times and followed the instructions. Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off. Then two screws hold the front on come out. Unplugged the two wires to the switch. Removed the duct assembly. Cleaned up the door and snapped in the new duct assembly. Re-installed the door and then the top. Everything was easy - just like in the video.

I opened the unit by removing the two screws over the door, lifting the top (careful not to break the plastic tabs connecting it in the rear to the electronic control panel), then removing the two screws securing the front so I could slide the drum forward and out (hoisting by the belt, bending the sides out slightly). I tested the heating elements for continuity, and tested the two thermostats on the left and right of the heating element for continuity. I found the wiring diagram in the control panel with the specs for the thermistors, which said they should read about 100 kOhm at room temperature. The two on the heating element were OK, but the thermistor on the back of the plastic output box read only about 6 kOhm. After ordering and installing the replacement, it took about 15 minutes to put the drum back in, re-thread the belt, and close the unit back up (thanks to some helpful videos on YouTube). This was the second time this thermistor failed! The first time was under warranty.

Had to remove the drum to get at the heater element also had to swop the sensers to the new element

Dryer would turn on when you pushed the "on" button, but as soon as you let go, it would turn off. Found the plastic door switch cracked (from slamming door closed). Unplugged the dryer. Unscrewed the two screws inside the top of the door to unfasten the top panel. Took the top panel off. Then unscrewed the two screws on the side to unlatch the front panel. Used plyers to take the 3 wires off the switch and slid the switch through the front of the door. Juat remember where the wires go. Then inserted new switch and connected the wires. Vacuumed out the dryer and reassembled. It took about 20 minutes and was easy! If I can do it, you can!!!