DBSR453GB1CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Gently pull off all knobs and put aside. Remove the panel screws using the star bit. Tip panel forward. Remove three wires from old switch and put them on same terminals on new switch. Use the screwdriver to gently pull up the old switch's locking arm from the slot in the front panel and rotate the old switch until it pops out of the front panel. Insert the new switch into the panel and rotate until the locking arm clicks into place. Replace front panel making sure no wires are pinched. Re-install the front panel screws and control knobs.

Opened up dryer for access to all components and tested. All checked good. Put back together and tested and igniter came on but no flame. Purchased two new coils and tested again. No flame. Purchased complete valve assembly and replaced old one. Tested again and viola, success! TY PartSelect for exact replacement part.

UNPLUGGED THE DRYER AND PULLED THE DIAL FROM THE START SWITCH. REMOVED THE FOUR SCREWS FROM THE TOP OF THE CONTROL PANEL WITH A T20 STAR SCREWDRIVER. PULLED THE CONTROL PANEL COVER FORWARD. LABELED THE THREE WIRES GOING TO THE START SWITCH WITH THE NUMBERS ON THE OLD SWITCH. PULLED THE WIRES OFF THE OLD SWITCH. LIFTED THE RETAINING CLIP ON THE OLD SWITCH AND ROTATED THE SWITCH ABOUT 90 DEGREES. PULLED THE OLD SWITCH OUT AND INSTALLED THE NEW SWITCH, ROTATING IT UNTIL THE RETAINING CLIP SNAPPED INTO PLACE. CONNECTED THE WIRES TO THE CORRECT NUMBERED TERMINALS ON THE NEW SWITCH. PUT THE CONTROL PANEL COVER BACK IN PLACE AND REATTACHED IT WITH THE SCREWS, REPLACED THE DIAL AND PLUGGED IN THE DRYER.

It was so simple. I removed the old ripped gasket by just pulling it. I followed the same direction with the new gasket by using a small screw driver to push in the tabs in each of the holes in the door. It works perfectly. They only fear I had was getting the part and the correct part, the model number of the dryer was on the door which made it easy.

First thing I did was find out the model and serial #'s of the dryer. I went to a major store to see if they had the part, found out that it had to be ordered and mailed to me. I decided to do it myself, I found your website and I ordered the part. I saved $10.00 by doing this. The part was very easy to remove and install. I just had to remove a small clamp that held the part on to the machine and make sure the 3 wires were secured after I installed the new part. Thank you!

Unplugged the dryer. Removed the 4 star headed screws with a screwdriver. Tilted the console forward and lifted. I didn't have to slide mine to the right. Pulled the knob straight off the front of the console. Lifted the lock tab with the needle nose pliers and twisted the switch to the right. It popped right out. Pulled the wires off with the pliers. Be aware, there are three wires, two red and one black. The both red wires only connect to one terminal on the switch. It looked at first glance as if I had the wrong part. But those two wires are connected to each other so it was correct. Plugged those wires back on. Put the switch into the hole and twisted it back into place, the lock clicked in to place. Replaced the console and plugged it back in and it worked perfectly. Turned right on. This took me under 15 minutes to do. Steve is the man! This girl has been able to use his videos to repair the dryer 3 times, the washer once, and my dishwasher 3 times over the years!!

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

Took 4 screws out of the top control panel flipped it over got the new timer put the wires off the old timer on the new twisted the old one off twisted the new one on put control panel back on screws back in turned power back on perfect like new

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

Took new one out of package, and push it on. 4 seconds!

Unplugged dryer. Removed four back panel screws to expose the switches. Removed the wires from the bad switch and transferred them to the new switch. Lifted locking tab on switch and rotated it so the two locking tabs aligned with the slots. Removed old switch and inserted new switch. Rotated about a half turn and replaced the four panel screws. Plugged in the dryer and tested. Very easy repair.

(1) unplug the power from outlet. (2) unscrew the 3 screws. (3)slide the front instrument panel slight right to remove it. (4) flip over the panel (5) remember the wire colors and their connections, and remove 3 wires (6) pull up the metal tab on the start switch a bit to unlock it and turn counter clock wise to remove the switch (6) do the reverse steps to install the switch.

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.

Two screws under the dryer door then the top comes off.Then two screws hold the front on come out. 4 screws top is off and front is off the rest is no problem.

My son is an engineer and repairs washers and dryers for a large commercial laundry company on a daily basis. He installed my part easily and had me up and running in no time.