GFD45GSPM1DG General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Followed the directions from the video about that particular part. I am 57 and it was fairly simple to do.

My son ordered the part, but gave up installing it. We called in a professional appliance repairman because the dryer had to be partially dismantled to remove the drum and a belt so three sets of holes could be aligned to secure the replacement diffuser. My daughter had to lend a hand to hold one piece in place while the repairman threaded the screws because the drum was too deep for him to be able to reach both front and back pieces. Definitely not a one-person job for this particular model.

Took the back off/there were six phillips head screws. Took the protective cover off the Interlock Switches and found the problem. One of the buttons was jambed and would not move. I pulled the switch up and pulled the connecting wires. This took a little bit of doing as the connectors have been set for over 8 years. I used a pair of needle nose pliers. I reconnected the new switch and punched both switches and the washer started. It was an easy repair after that, putting everything back in reverse order.

1. turn off gas.2. disconnect electric.3.Remove 3/8 gas line from rear of burner. 4.disconnect two electric connectors from gas valve assembly. 5.disconnect electric line from igniter. 6.remove two mounting sheet metal screws from front of gas valve assembly(5/16 socket). There also may be a screw holding assembly to the bottom plate.7. remove entire assembly from dryer by pulling out to the front. 8.remove igniter assembly and replace on new burner. 9. two sheet metal screws 1/4 inch hold burner assembly to gas valve assembly.10.Install in reverse order . it may take a few seconds for the gas to get down to the burner. don't forget to change over the air mix valve to the same place.

I'm a 90 pound mother of 4you and was able to fix this problem all by myself. Very easy!

followed instructions that came with kit. The problem was the instructions were not very clear with regard to the "type" of burner. the "A" type with the slot is explained but the "B" without the slot wasen't clearly explained. Even that wasen't too bad (I had to re-do that part), But you need to be 20 years old to see the damned print. I had to use my reading glasses AND a magnifying glass to read them. Also with the "B" type burner, which I have, you simply install the limiter part and you don't need (can't) adjust it.

Unplug the dryer. On the back, I unscrewed the top three screws that hold on the instrument panel and (from the back) slide the panel to my left to disconnect from the top. I opened the dryer door and removed the two screws on the inside top of the doorway to remove the top panel of the dryer. Inside the top of the dryer are two screws to remove so that I could swing the front panel of the dryer out to replace the lower front felt drum seal. I needed to use wd-40 on these screws. When the panel opens, there is no way to disconnect the wires to remove the panel, so I had to prop it up with something so it didn't tip over and damage the wiring; a sturdy chair worked. Then, I heared the drum pop off and drop down a little. I replaced the seal according to the video; by putting it in the groove and pressing it down into the tabs with a flat head screwdriver or something smooth with a little of the seal hanging over the groove at each end. While I was in there, I cleaned out the lint and the wd-40 I used earlier. Then I closed the panel, lifting the drum back into place, ensuring that the dryer drum would turn before and after I replaced the screws. I replaced the top panel and the screws inside the dryer door and slid the instrument panel back into place and replaced those screws. The dryer works great and very quietly now!

Followed the video which made it real easy.

Your site offered a video tutorial that removed any anxiety about doing the repair correctly. Removed front of dryer, disconnected wire assembly going to the front, replaced seal in seconds, returned dryer to original set up. simple. luckily. very easy to use website.

Simply popped the old broken part out and popped the new part into place. I wasn't sure if it was the Latch Door or the Door Strike. Once the parts arrived, it was clear the Door Strike was not the issue.

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

Replaced bulb.

Unplug dryer, unscrew bulb then replace with a new bulb. Plug dryer back in.

inserted the latch into the opening in the front face of the dryer

unplugged old switch and installed new one. it took 5 minutes to do. 20.00 saved me 400.00 on a new washer.