GFD40GSCM0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

Screwed the light bulb into the socket (duh)

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

i follow your video and all went well except now the dryer will not heat. i went back on your site an tried the no heat option an still no heat

Shortly after a piece of felt (the duct felt seal) was visible on the drum intererior, the dryer started making metal-on-metal squeaks. A few weeks later it started leaving'machine part' type brown/black marks on clothes. With the model # it was quite easy to find and order the correct part, which arrived a few days later. The accompanying video made installation quite straightforward, even for someone who's NEVER worked on a dryer before - even though the model used wasn't the same. Over half the repair time was to clean out lint and dirt from the various exposed parts. Overall, an easy and effective repair that solved the staining issue. Follow the video and you won't go wrong.

Removed the 3 star screws, putting in a piece if wire as I removed them. Wire was not stiff enough and let the drum slip thus binding making it hard to remove. Started over. Finally called a friend for help. I bought 3 tension pins the same size as the screws. When removing the diffuser screws, insert a tension pin in the hole as you remove each of the screws. The tension pins are hard metal and do not have a head. The diffuser will slip over them. After the diffuser was in place, we turned on the dryer to make sure it was running ok. I noticed what looked like lint toward the front. It was part of the felt gasket on the front of the drum and front of the dryer. We removed the screws on the dryer front and pulled it forward. The felt was rethreaded into its slot, put the front back in place,and replaced the screws that hold everything in place. If you turn the part of the dryer that spins by hand, make sure you are turning it in the correct direction. Turning it the wrong way is probably what caused the felt gasket to come loose causing more work.

I removed the two screws inside the door and popped the top loose. I took the top off to see and have access to the interior. I leaned the front out and inserted the belt around the drum (with my wife's help), replaced the screws and laid the dryer on it's face on a rolled up blanket and proceeded to run the belt around the pulleys (two). The drive pulley was easy but the idler pulley, not so easy. I had to figure out how the pulley arm was supposed to provide tension on the belt. I figured it out by looking at the diagram. It was then I found the idler pulley was broken and fell apart in my hand. I advise that a new pulley be installed at the same time as the belt. Everything I read on your web site helped.

Open up the unit's lid first and then removed the front panel. Then I removed the broken belt and then routed the new belt around drum, through the belt tensioner, and onto to the motor pulley. I checked to make sure the belt was securely in place and if it would rotate the drum. Once I was positive it was in place I put the dryer panels back together, plug in the dryer, and tested operation. The only thing that was difficult was trying to figure out the routing of the belt through the tensioner because the old belt wasn't in place anymore. In all it was a 45 minute job.

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

The top and front of the dryer had to come off, and taking off the top (and later putting it back on) was the hardest part. The old seal was stretched approximately two feet longer than the replacement part, and its thinness caused the drum to squeak as it scraped by the door panel. We simply pressed the new seal into place after pulling out the old one. Piece of cake. Putting the front of the dryer back on was simple as well. Fitting the top back into its slots properly was the biggest pain of the whole ordeal. The part came in about 2 days. Thanks!

4 screws, that was it

open the dryer door, locate the 2 screws that hold the top in place, unscrew them

then locate the 2 screws (located near the top of the dryer (facing toward you) and unscrew them

allow the front of the dryer to tilit out towards you, replace the felt, slide the drum back into place into the front of the dryer, resecure the 2 screws (removed last)

lower top of dryer back in place, being careful to make sure the top clips back in correctly.

re-install the 2 screws that secure the dryer top to the front.

boom, you are done....

Amazingly easy work...

All the stores had either a smaller watt or a larger watt and the book suggested always using the correct watt. I was glad to find it on this sight and it was delivered very quickly.

removed two phillips screws from front panel, removed front panel and raised top cover, had my wife hold up top cover while i removed belt and installed new one, reassembled in reverse order, turned on dryer and checked for proper operation, and yes i did unplug the unit. worked great!!

The bracket on the part supplied was different than the original. The wire connector was also different. The bracket had to be drilled for a hole to match the original. The connector had to be cut off and the wires soldered together, then tied off to the frame to keep them away from the flame. The repair works like new but not the simple plug and play I was expecting. In all fairness the exact model number was not available, probably since the appliance was 24 years old, so I chose the closest model number with the picture that looked like what I had. Problem solved.