GTD65EBPL1DG General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Once I figured out how to remove the control panel. The rest was very easy. Upon pulling off the knob in the center of the control panel, there was a screw behind it. Once removed I used the palm of my hand and gave it a couple of upward hits in the center while the door was open. It slid up and I removed the electrical connections. Then carefully removed the top by pushing from the rear of the machine slightly and lifted off. Then removing the screws that hold the front on . After that it went pretty easily, reassembly went in reverse and. That was that!

Replaced it as one would. I took off the front facing and replaced the belt. It took a bit of searching to find the proper way to route the belt around the pulley.

It took a while since it was my first time and I wasn't sure what to take apart and what to leave intact.

If I were to do it again, it would take 30 minutes or less.

The entire dryer had to be taken apart to get to the door switch. I determined the door switch was faulty by measuring conductivity. I purchased the new switch which cost about $9. The shipping cost was $9. After all that, the dryer still won't start. I gave up and bought a new dryer.

When the dryer was installed last year by the dealer, one of the hot leads was not screwed down tightly. Over time the screw loosened and began to arc causing the plastic holding the screw to melt. When I moved the dryer the hot lead fell off and hit the terminal block cover shorting out the dryer. I was able to locate the exact terminal block I needed with their helpful dryer section diagrams. The part came in the time they said. I took off the old terminal block with just 2 attached screws. i kept track of which screws held the hot and neutral conductors and the ground before I removed them. I was then able to slide on the dryer wires and attached the home conductors. I put on the cover plate, turned on the circuit breaker and it worked.

Removed 4 #1 Philips screws from 1side and add to the other side.

Pry out switch with screwdriver. After removing switch unplug electrical leads from old switch. Plug leads in new switch and reinstall switch in dryer.

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.

Remove top cover and front cover

Un plug the dryer. Gather phillip, flat head and torix screw drivers. Remove the rear of the dryer to get the spec sheet with the appropriate part number. Next called for part. Belt installation requires removal of front and top of dryer in order to slide belt over the drum. Getting to all the fastners requires tilting the dryer on its back. Clean out excess lint from dryer interior and duct work. Slide drive belt over drum and use some masking tape to hold it in position. Reassemble dyer. Return dryer to upright position and put the belt on the pully and tensioner from rear access port. Remove tape. Replace access panel. Reattach vent duct work. Plug in. There are 5-6 different size screws holding everything together...you may want to use masking tape to label where each type of screw goes. All totaled it took about an hour and cost less that $25. Well worth the effort.

loosened two hose clamps and four screws to replace the anti siphon valve.

Well, the intall would have been great except for the fact that I needed another part. If your belt breaks there is a reason for it. Make sure you check all the parts that work with the belt. Their was a pully the was defective and also need to be replaces. I think it would be a good idea to put a little note on the page for the Belt Drive to let people know that if you are replaceing the belt you might want to check the Idler Pully for it too might need to be replaces. I'm not an expert and if that was on the page for the Belt Drive I might have look at the pully before I ordered and I would have ordered the part along with the Belt Drive. As it was had to wait another 4 day to get my dryer fixed. I'm very happy the Parts Select has all my parts and they pretty good at getting them out to me in a good amount of time when I need them.

4 screws, that was it

open the dryer door, locate the 2 screws that hold the top in place, unscrew them

then locate the 2 screws (located near the top of the dryer (facing toward you) and unscrew them

allow the front of the dryer to tilit out towards you, replace the felt, slide the drum back into place into the front of the dryer, resecure the 2 screws (removed last)

lower top of dryer back in place, being careful to make sure the top clips back in correctly.

re-install the 2 screws that secure the dryer top to the front.

boom, you are done....

Amazingly easy work...

I removed the front cover and top of the dryer by removing screws visible from opening the dryer door. I then had to figure out exactly how the belt was set around the drum and other pulleys. With the belt around the drum and around the motor rotor, the other pulley had to be very forcibly pushed towards the drum in order to get the belt seated correctly. This being my first dryer repair, I was unsure of how the belt was needed to placed. But eventually figured it out using pictures from the internet. The second pulley required a lot of force and I had to squeeze my hand and arm under the drum of the dryer in order to make the belt fit correctly with enough slack to reach around the second pulley.

The top and front of the dryer had to come off, and taking off the top (and later putting it back on) was the hardest part. The old seal was stretched approximately two feet longer than the replacement part, and its thinness caused the drum to squeak as it scraped by the door panel. We simply pressed the new seal into place after pulling out the old one. Piece of cake. Putting the front of the dryer back on was simple as well. Fitting the top back into its slots properly was the biggest pain of the whole ordeal. The part came in about 2 days. Thanks!

As I pulled each of the 3 bolts, I put a alignment rod into each of the holes. After I pulled the old deflector off, I had basically 3 pins/rods to slip the new deflector on and keep everything in basic alignment. Pulled one rod, reinstalled the bolt, so on and so on. Ran motor for noises or misalignment and had neither. Pretty simple repair.