DDE8208VJC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

1. removed old switch 2.wrote model # 3. went to web site found part 4. ordered part 5 part came in 2 days 6. installed part in 15 min. works like new saved over 95.00 thanks ed

We removed the lid to the dryer. The drum had to come out so the back access was removed and the belt taken off. The drum then slid out the front. The dryer had two elements both were broken. The new ones were stretched to the proper length and laced through the ceramic brackets. The new copper leads werre installed and the coils attached to them. We cleaned the dryer as much as possible and reassembled it. Works like a charm (for now)!

Parts arrived within a couple of days,the repair went fairly easy.

First of all unplug the dryer, move it to a location that you have room to work around it. Remove the top and then take the two screws out that are on the inside of the dryer close to the top and then loosen the two bottom front screws only. Remove the front of the dryer and then look in the back of the dryer in the center of it and there is a square hole with a cover, remove the cover and behind it is a c-clamp, remove it. At this time release the tension on the dryer's belt and then pull the drum out towards the front of the dryer. Once this is done you'll be able to see the heater coils. You have to remove the bolts that the wires are attached to and cut the wire so you can pull the old coils through the glass rings to get the old coil out. Open your package and have a 48" yardstick or a tape measure and stretch the coils to the lengths in the instructions. Thread the new coils through the glass holders and then you have to remove the three heater wires that go through the wall of the ring so you can connect the new wires to the new bolts provided with your kit. One idea is to take a picture with your smart phone before you take anything off if it seems you can't remember what when where so you can see how the wires and bolts go back together. Once you have the bolts and wires connected you just reverse the process and put the dryer back together. *********** If I knew what I know now I would order a few of the glass holders because two of mine were burnt and I would have replaced them if I had them; I'd buy 4 to 6 of them to make sure I had enough.

I got to supervise - my son did it for me!!!! Went very well!

Researching on the web I thought the trouble might be lint buildup or trouble w/ one of the parts involved in spinning the drum. However I cleaned out all the lint and replaced the belt and idler pulley and this didn't improve the smell (drum bearing was fine). I then concluded the trouble was the motor. Running the motor w/o the drum in place confirmed this was where the noise/smell was coming from. Replacing the motor was fiddly--I had to remove the clip holding the motor (pried the top w/ a screwdriver), wires (made a diagram so as to put back in same order, they were hard to get off--a pliers did the job), clamps holding the motor on the duct, the motor mount, the duct, the fan. Putting all this back together took a while (not hard just fiddly). Tested the motor w/out the drum in place and it sounded fine. Put the drum and back/front/top panels back and the dryer runs fine now. All parts came quickly and exactly matched the parts in my 1993 Hotpoint dryer. As others have said the pulley kit is not needed--these are included w/ the motor. BTW I am a 53-year-old lady. Thanks to all who took the time to write up their experiences--big help!!

What to do if you have a load of wet laundry at 23:00, the dryer won’t start, and you have no spare start switch.
Removed rear access panel and discovered the wire from terminal #2 (goes to heater coils) on the start switch had melted and disconnected. The start switch showed signs of overheating but not melted. Removed the switch and found the switch’s actuator button was jammed in the ‘in’ position (dryer won't start). The switch was a friendly one in that it was possible to disassemble it. Most switches today are molded/glued together, but this one could be pried apart. The contacts inside were still in fair condition and, after dressing them, the switch was reassembled. The actuator button had a burr that was filed off and the switch action worked fine. All of the 1/4" male QC contacts on the switch were cleaned with a wire brush. The burned wire was cut back about 6” and a new piece of 14ga wire was spliced in with a wire nut. A new 1/4” QC terminal was crimped to the wire and all wires were re-attached to the switch.
This fix would probably last for a long time to come, but I bought a new switch and installed it and will keep the old switch as a backup.
p.s. The load of laundry was dry by 02:00.

remove two bolts in back on the top two corners. four tiny screws right inside the door. the top comes off with the wires still attached. looking down from the back on the left side of the dryer there is the high limit thermostat two wires and two tiny bolts and it is out; it is very tight. The thermostat- limit 145-15 is located in the lint trap. top is off looking down the front of the dryer there are two bolts remove those pull up on the whole front move it off to the side open door remove the ring by tiny screws and lint trap. you can see the nose of the thermostat remove three screws that is holding a metal cover on and thermostat in place. Remember don`t lose a little metal clip for one of the screws it is tight space. Put everything back together and your done

I replaced the three thermostats first, but still not action on the unit. I then replaced the timer and the machine came to life. It was helpful with the explosion diagrams as you could see what would be needed and where the hidden screws might be. All in all, it went pretty smoothly with common tools.

the switch was stuck couldn't get the switch to pop out to stop the dryer when opening the door light inside also wouldnt go on. it only took a few min to take it the switch and replace the new switch the light now works also stops when opening the door it made my day easierhow easy it was to fix it. only take to use a pliers and screw driver.

Make sure your power is off, When loosened the top and tilted back, the first thing I saw was the door switch, I guess I was just lucky I disconnected the two wires and checked it and it was bad. Got my new one from you and installed it. It has a ground terminal, which my model switch only had the two terminals. It working fine.I took the bad switch apart and the one leg on the copper U shaped contact had broken off. The Belt I have as a spare.

Change the coil by removing the cotter pin around drum in the back I accidently removed the 3 star bits and the front and it was hard getting back together. The coils are easy to change, but found that the coil wasn't the issue it was the cyclical thermosat underneath the lint catcher in front. The part (heater coil) works better than the older one, so I guess it wasn't a complete screw up. I read up on a few others and think I should have check thermostat first oops. good luck

My General Electric clothes dryer (model DDE7206RAL) was running to hot. I went on the internet and goggled “General Electric clothes dryer gets to hot”. This led me to the “partselect.com” website which listed two possibilities for a fix along with a schematic of the dryer. I ordered both parts: 1) high limit thermostat – part WE4X584 which is listed as #507 on the schematic and 2) Thermostat- limit 145-15 listed as part #315 on the schematic. Replacing these parts is an easy fix. It took me about an hour to replace both parts. I can do it a second time in 15 minutes.

I only needed two tools and a flashlight to replace both parts. I unplugged the dryer. I opened up the dryer door to access the four screws that held the hinged dryer top. I used a Craftsman TORX T15 screwdriver to take out the four screws then lifted the hinged top to expose the #507 high limit thermostat (back right on the exposed drum). The thermostat is designed so that it can not be replaced in the wrong position. This thermostat is held in place with two ¼ inch screws. I took out the old thermostat and then replaced the electrical contacts one by one as I removed them from the old thermostat to the new thermostat and then replaced the new sensor with the ¼ screws. I then closed the dryer lid and replaced the four screws that secured the lid.

The part #315 (thermostat-limit 145-15) is accessed from where you put the cloths into the dryer. The thermostat part that senses the temperature are exposed inside the drum but the actual location of the sensors are underneath the lint filter and covered by part #305. Part #315 is held in place by two screws located on the inside of the drum.
Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. Stick your head in the dryer to see two thermostats sensors (parts #315 and #316). Part #315 is the one on the left as you look down at the two thermostats sensors. You will see four screws inside the dryer drum. Take out only the top two screws inside the dryer using the TORX T15 screwdriver. Then the cover (part #305 on the schematic) can be lifted out from under where the lint screen had been positioned. REMOVE ANY LINT FROM THE EXPOSED screws which are held in place by part #311 clips on the schematic. Then remove the bottom left screw (the other screw holding the #315) from inside the drum while holding the #311 clip located underneath the lift screen ( I suggest that you put a piece of duct tape on the #311 clip to keep it from falling as you loosen up the screw from inside the dryer drum.) The old thermostat is now free and can be lifted out from underneath where the lint screen had been positioned. The thermostat #315 has a marking on the original and the replacement. I just replaced the new with the same relative markings positions that were on the old #315 and the same for the electrical connections. The hardest part of this replacement was putting in the new #315 bottom left screw. I had to put a piece of tape on the #311 clip to start the replacement of the bottom left screw then I removed the tape after the bottom left screw had been replaced. After that was in place it was just a matter of replacing the cover (part #305- the top two screws from inside the drum) and the lint screen.

The dryer worked perfectly the next run of dirty clothes. $27 plus postage. What a deal.

I have had this happen to another ge dryer, so I had an idea what was wrong. After taking the 4 torx screws out from under the front lip of dryer top, lifting the top back (like opening the hood of your car) in the back right corner is where the high limit tstat is. To verify the problem (dryer already unpluged of course) pull the two wires off the terminals of tstat, connect them together, wrap bare parts w/ electrical tape. Let top down & plug dryer in-- it started& ran fine. Got online and ordered replacement tstat (it arrived in 2 days-- great!) unscrewed the two 1/4" hex screws holding tstat on, installed new part. On to bigger and better things ! Dryer working fine.

removed four screws holding top. Swing back top to expose thermostat. emove two push on connectors and two self tapping screws. Instal new thermostat