DBVH512GF0WW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

We removed two screws to remove the top and two screws to remove the front. The dryer drum slides were easy to replace and the felt fit into a track. It was so easy and now my dryer is quiet again, no more rubbing/squeaking. I can't believe that was all we had to do, and for $60.00!!! I'll be back for future parts if needed. Thanks.

Advice from others with same problem on your web site was very helpful. I removed one of the three torx screws holding the deflecter, Used 2.5 star-drive screw diver bit and cordless drill/driver. Replaced 2 of three torx screws holding the deflecter with the headless brass screws, Using vice grip to tighten. Removed third torx screw and removed old deflector. Used shop vac to clean behind it. Installed new deflector, sliding it over the 2 headless screws, then installing one of the torx screws, then replacing the brass screws with original torx screws, one at a time.

There are 2 switches that should be pressed in when you move the handle to lock door, the switches usually go bad with time. Just take the six screws off on the inside of door, then remove screw on the underneath part of handle. The switches are located on the top part under a piece of 1 inch metal plate held in by a screw, remove that and you'll see the 2 switches, test the button on each one to see if it goes in and out, you'll hear the click to. Just unplug bottom first then the top if you need to replace the top one. Thats it.

watched the video on your website,this made repair to the dryer very easy.hardest step in the repair was getting the belt hooked up on motor and tensioner,but being old and persistent i finally won!

snapped in new latch

remove top cover and lean front panel foreward.
remove old top bearing and snap new one in place.

This is more a word of caution than instructions. The inlet control thermostat should be around 100 k ohms at room temp not 10 k ohms as I was quoted. I ordered one and after receiving it found out the "faulty" one and the new one were only 2 ohms difference.

The center outlet thermistor should also be around 120 k ohms at room temp. The faulty one was reading about 145 k ohms. It does heat now, and hopefully after replacing the elements it will be right again.

The drum bearing slides made a huge improvement!!

For the first time trying to repair an appliance I'd say the whole thing went fairly well, but with my mechanical and electronics backgrounds I did have an advantage. The hardest part was figuring out how to get the thing apart to get inside in the first place.

Tried to replace with home-store bought 6w light. Looked the same, fit into socket, but didn't work. Actually exploded when I turned it on! Be sure to use OEM part like this one. Worked perfectly!

Open the dryer door and remove the two screws in the top of the door opening that hold the top of the dryer on, and then remove the dryer top. On the inside of the dryer, there are two screws that hold the front of the dryer on. Remove one screw from each side of the dryer near the top, and the front of the dryer will fall away. The drum slides are visible when you lean the front panel of the dryer out away from the drum. You can replace the drum slides without even removing the front of the dryer completely. Pull out the old drum slides and insert the new slides. Lift the drum slighly from the inside through the dryer door as you tilt the front back into place. Reinsert the screws holding the front of the dryer on and tighten. BE CAREFUL not to drop the screws or you may have to disassemble the dryer to get at the dropped screws. Reinstall the top of the dryer. It is a difficult fit which requres inserting into 3 tabs and sliding the top into place. Check that the top is flush before inserting and tightening the screws in the top of the door opening.

I replaced the slides and the top bearing. Watched a video on here on how to replace the slides. Which helped me remove the door properly. Very easy. Was able to do by oneself. Parts came really fast. Only down for two days.

It was super easy, done in 5 less than 5 min. Thanks Parts Select. Parts Select made it easy to find the replacement part by posting pictures. Thanks

Remove front by removing two screws at top of door opening. Remove front of dryer carefully becsuse of electrical connections for door switch. Drum sliders simply silde in slots at top. (4 are required for total replacement) Door seal simply fits in the groove and locks over end tab. NOTE Do not run dryer any more than absolutelty nessary without lower seal in place.

First unplug dryer to prevent electrical shock. To remove the front of the dryer, open the door in top left and top right corners is a machine screw. They can be removed with a Phillips screw driver. Lift the top slightly and let front fall forward about 6 inches, lift slightly. Two wire will be connected to the switch in the door. remove the wires and squeeze the tabs on both sides of the switch and push it out. Push new switch in to replace old switch and reassemble.

The PartSelect company's "how to" repair videos are OUTSTANDING. Thank you! The videos provided a comprehensive overview of what to expect in terms of clothes dryer disassembly, component replacement and reassembly. The videos were invaluable tutorials for prior-to-disassembly work.

I ordered all the following parts which I felt were likely excessively worn--white and green bearing slides (two of each required), rear drum bearing kit, drive belt, and idler pulley wheel--to address the noisiness issue.

For your consideration: Since our dryer is 12 years old and would be disassembled anyway, I decided to order a new dryer drum belt and idler pulley, to replace these two constant-use items as preventive maintenance.

Two notes.
One: When replacing the dryer drum bearing parts, you need a T25 torx bit to loosen and remove the three torx-head screws. But using my T25 torx bit-head-style screwdriver, it was impossible to loosen them. Fortunately, I had a T25 torx bit, which I could mount in a socket wrench, which DID allow me to loosen those three torx-head screws without damage/breakage. WHEW! Recommend you are similarly prepared!
Two: If you purchase the "Rear Drum Bearing Kit," it already comes with the the "Drum Bearing Sleeve" and "Retainer O-Ring" components I thought I would also need--no need to purchase separately. I returned those two items, unopened, for a refund.

All together, from dryer disassembly to, component replacement, to a thorough vacuuming/cleaning, to reassembly and an operational check, it took about four hours. The dryer is now nearly noiseless again! Success!

I consider myself reasonably good with tools and have a fair amount of electrical and mechanical skill. My wife assisted with extra hands a couple times, too, seriously reducing my frustration level. Depending on your abilities, you'll take more time or less time than the four hours it took me. I'm certain I saved at least a couple hundred dollars by doing this maintenance myself.

In summary, the PartSelect person taking my order was knowledgeable and professional, I received my parts two days after ordering, the parts worked perfectly, and the company refunded my two, unopened returned parts promptly. Overall, a terrific experience. I highly recommend them to any capable do-it-yourselfer.

Thanks, PartSelect!

Took the screws out of the back of the doorl located the switch and replaced it put screws back in and it was fixed