DDG8580RAL General Electric Dryer - Instructions

I unplugged the dryer and pryed open the top by inserting a screw driver in the space 1inch from the top on the side. After i opened it and lifed it up, I removed the one screw on both sides found in the inner part towards the front top. I then removed the front panel. The coils are toward the bottom left side. They are held in by a bracket which is held in by 2 screws. I removed the outer screw and loosened the inner screw. ( you can remove both screws but it was not necessary).I then swumg the bracket around and was able to lift out the coils. I removed the connectors and relaced the coils. Once done I re-assembled the dryer. The problem was solved.

Dryer was working, only burner was working occasionally only. So, in result the drying time was very long, and clothes were cold and still not satisfactionally dry; occasionally only it was hot. It became obvious to me that gas burner only occasionally is working. On the Internet I found some instructables, mostly on YouTube, but also on this site (the Burner diagram): thus I have learned that the culprit must be the two tiny ignition coils: they worked only sometimes, so it was only a jeopardy when checking them using a continuation meter (voltmeter with continuation feature). For the access to the burner combo I used a small checking door right below the large door, in front wall of the dryer. There are only two small screws which hold a small piece of metal which cover these tiny coils. However, I had to disconnect the burner from gas pipe to get better access to those screws. (Of course, I also disconnected the dryer from power and I had to disconnect those wire connections on the burner combo to get access to the burner). It works perfectly after this repair.

Remove the bottom cover of dryer to look at the motor, see belt hanging remove broken belt. Remove screws from the top and front, slide belt over drum put small piece of tape to hole belt in place replace screws go back to the rear pull belt over the motor pulley close back panel

Open top by removing 4 phillips head screws above opened door, pop top up. Remove rear access panel, remove belt from drive & tension pully. Loosen top front screws, remove front panel to gain access to remove drum. After drum removed, I realized why rear bearing went bad- two front guides were worn causing rear bearing to angle and wear out. Replaced front pads, buttoned her up and now quite as new. Also replaced drive belt while in there.

The rear bearing plate had no threads where the screws go to hold it to the back of the dryer drum. I have never bought anything else that needed threads cut in it to be used as a replacement part.

remove the old one and put the new one...!!! Easy

Open dryer door, reach in at the 12 o'clock postion
on the inside is the bulb.

1. removed old switch 2.wrote model # 3. went to web site found part 4. ordered part 5 part came in 2 days 6. installed part in 15 min. works like new saved over 95.00 thanks ed

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.

Inspected door switch operation and was working properly and simply looked for bulb in the dryer drum housing and located it immediately above the door opening,unscrewed it and noticed the broken elements inside. The bulb is a 10w/120V. Installed bulb problem solved.

Unscrewed the old bulb using the lefty loosey method. Installed the new bulb by turning it clockwise or righty tighty.

Replaced filter

After much research I decided to have to repaired all new models were not good. Reached out to local service repair because I beleved that it was the timer. $270 for service call REALLY and $125 for part.
Reached ot to PART SELECT LOVE YOU GUYS) SAID WHAT WAS THE PROBLEM the chocie was a new knob or replace timer. I am
83 yr old woman and believe I could have done it myself if it wasn't for the problem of moving the dryer out. shut off electric four screws
take out old replace new rewire the four screws WORKING NEPHEW
DID IT IN TEN MINUTES NO CHARGE BUT THANK YOU PART SELECT FOR REAFFIRMING MY DIAGNOSIS. AUDREY

Used a flash light to see, reached in and installed new bulb above the door

Watched tecnician (I paid) as he diagnosed the problem. Four screws take of the top and front. Clothes drum slides out. Access to valve is good. Valve attaches to feed via compression fitting. Male end of fitting on unit is moved to new unit via allen wrench. Drive belt is re attached around drum and over idler easily. Part cost $90.00 shipp0ed to me. Technician asked $375.00 for this repair. Access the parts via placing the model number on Google Search.