DBLR333GG2CC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

When we first heard the screeching i thought right away that it was the belt. we ordered a new one and after i replaced it the dryer was still just as loud. I wished i went here first. Right away i found others with the same problem, did the same repair which was just taking 2 screws out, sliding the top and front panel off(watch for the electric wire connected to the panel) and replace a couple of plastic slides. now it is better than ever.

I order the parts needed to replace the slides, the felt ,and the bearing on a Sunday afternoon. The parts arrived on Tuesday even though I used regular shipping. I followed the instructions posted by another customer. It was extremely easy and only took me about fifteen minutes. My only problem was that I needed 2 each of the front slide and the rear slide, and I unknowingly only ordered 1 of each. I order the other 2 on Tuesday via regular shipping and they arrived on Wed. AMAZING!!!!

this was a part i ordered for future use. i was very happy with the ordering process and speed of delivery from PartSelect.

Removed the broken lint filter and replaced with new

Removed the star bit screws on the top of the control panel then removed the front by opening the door and removing the screws in the upper corners of the door jam. I then removed the top which exposed the drum slides. NOTE: This model requires 4 drum slides and NOT two as specified in the video.

I used a flat head, a phillips head, and two sizes of sockets with my screwdriver to complete this project. I initially undid the control panel, but I don't think I needed to. I next took out two long screws that were holding the top of the cabinet on. These screws were just inside the doorway, directly above where the door sits when closed. I took the top off and set it aside. Being careful to mark which wire went to which lead, I undid the leads to the door open/closed switch. I next found two, black, hex-end screws, one each on the upper sides, towards the front, and undid these with a socket end on the screwdriver; being careful not to drop them as they came out. I then tilted the front panel out and up and set it aside. Note that the front opening holds the drum up so it can spin. Next, I tilted the front of the drum up, and pulled it outwards, till bearing at the back pulled out of the socket, and the drum dropped down enough that I could push the belt off the back of the drum. I then pulled the drum out through the front opening. I could see that the bearing was mostly worn away and metal was rubbing on metal. On the drum, I took off the air diffuser and the drum's half of the bearing assembly, and attached the new part of the bearing assembly, where the old one was. There was a metal disk that I was careful to reinsert in its former spot. I tried to make sure that all screws were tightened with equal force. Then I removed the entire bearing housing/blower assembly by undoing the outer screws that attached it ti the back wall of the cabinet, I rotated it outward at the top , pivoting around the compression fitting (no screws) at the base. I then removed the back half of the bearing housing, and replaced it. I needed to screw in the screws from the front while holding the spring-clip-thing in place (once installed, you can stick your finger through the hole in the bearing housing and feel the clip right behind it). I took this opportunity to clean all the excess lint out of the cabinet. I then replaced everything in reverse order until I got to the drum. I put the belt loosely arounf the drum, with the grooved/ridged side facing in. Then put the bearing (with drum), back in the socket. Feeling through the hole under the front of the drum, take the belt where it hangs off the drum TO YOUR RIGHT, run it under then up around the left side of the small pulley, then pull it to the right (above the small pulley) and around the right side of the big (tensioner) pulley, and let go. Note that there is a swithch in the tensioner that won't switch on unless there is enough tension on the belt! Put the front back on, lifting up the barrel from the inside, so that the barrel opening slides around the outside of the front's assembly. Ours seemed to fit more tightly than it had previously, into the felt padding around to bottom of the front assembly, but it seems to work fine? Screw in the two black, hex-head screws from the sides into the front, and re-attach the door-switch wires. Turn it on (carefully) to make sure it runs. Then attach the top, using the two long screws up through the door opening into the top. Ours is working much better than before - hotter, faster, quieter! Should we have lubricated the bearing with lithium grease?

Still waiting for your parts. over two weeks to get part which was a hinge for something, I don't know what, but not my dryer seal. You said you would refund shipping and wrong part and charge me for a new order. End result was I got charged extra shipping for your mistake. The part still is MIA and it has been 5 weeks since I originally ordered. Will never do business with you again.

Removed top - 2 screws. 2 more and the front comes off. I left the wires connected, and leaned the front against the wall. I then popped the drum bearing, with the slides off of the front, and pulled the felt from the lower half. I took some extra time cleaning lint with a shop vac. I then assembled the new parts back onto the front, and pulled the felt into position - it was a little fussy getting it right. The front panel and the top go back, and it`s done. I am glad I ordered the drum bearing, as the felt was worn much more than I would have guessed. This job could probably be done in 15 minutes next time, not including lint clean-up.

Key starting point is to remove top cover by removing two long screws located at the front of the cover
Remove control panel and it's bottom and side supports.
Remove short vent pipe by bending retainer tab.
Support the drum at the top using piece of rope.
Remove main rear cover (leave bottom attached).
Remove electric heating unit and install new bearing carrier from kit.
Reinstall the the heating unit
Remove three screws (inside the drum)to release the inner drum cover and release the bearing carrier.
Install new bearing carrier. Note: the three holes in the bearing carrier are not tapped, I suggest that the screws be installed (threads cut) into the bearing cover before attempting to install the bearing carrier.
Install the new bearing carrier. Note: pilot one of the holes using a small nail etc. then go on to install screws in the other two holes remove the pilot device and install the third screw.
Reassemble in reverse order.

I removed the top cover and the back cover to install new belt.
Once i put new belt i discovered that the pulley was also broken so now i have order the pulley so that i can complete the repair

Remove screws from back top section, twist out old timer and twist new one in place. Replace cords one at a time so you get correct position. Replace backplate and push knob onto new timer shaft . Congrats your done and saved about 200 bucks !

Removed top panel giving access to drum and screws that hold front panel (door). Removed to screws to be able to remove front panel but be careful wires are short not giving you much room to remove panel. Removed plastic Drum Bearing and replaced with New one. Installed slides and put back together.

easy to fix took less than 10 minutes

Open Door /remove 2 screws in top of door opening (this releases the top panel) /Lift top panel off of dryer (it is tucked under control panel) Remove the white plastic "arch" (front drum bearing) on top of door panel / Install new drum bearing and 4 each of the "slides" on the bearing/ There are two on each side of the "front drum bearing"/ Reverse the disassembly process to finish/ . You'll need a standard flat tip screw driver and a Phillips heads crewdriver to do all work

The instructions that came with the bearing were limited and the illustrations were too dark to see. However, after reading the reports of others on this website, the repair was very easy.

Prior to disassembly, remove theaccess panel on the rear of the dryer. Pull the belt drive pulley arm up and the belt will easily slide off of the motor pulley. The belt can be left on the drum.

Then, remove two screws at the inside top of the dryer door. The top of the dryer will then lift up at the front and slide forward to remove. This will allow you access to two bolt head screws on each side of the front panel. Remove these two screws and then lift the panel slightly up and forward. The front panel will then be free and the dryer drum will slide forward and out. Remove the four bolt head screws (behind the electric elements) from the heater element on the inside back of the dryer box.

You can now exchange the bearing on the drum and the bearing insert on the dryer heating element simply by removing the old and reinstalling the new just as the old was removed - four screws for each.

You will need an assistant to re-install the bearing. Someone needs to hold the three pieces behind the drum as you insert the three screws. You'll also need a star wrench set for this.

The drum is easily reinserted - just be careful to get the front of the drum placed into the front bearing surface when reinstalling the front panel. One word of caution, My wife tried to remove the felt bearing on the bottom of the front panel thinking that it was lint.

I found that the inside of my ten year old dryer was unbelievably full of lint. I'm sure that the efficiency improvements by cleaning the air passages will be substantial and I've just saved $400 on the price of a similar dryer ($900 if my wife and I decided to upgrade to the "new" model that we wanted but really didn't need.