DCCB330ED1KC General Electric Dryer - Instructions

good replacement procedure on you tube.

First, I unplugged the dryer, pulled it out into an open area. I then removed the vent hose. I opened the front door and removed the 2 screws that hold the top panel down. Once removed, I lifted off the top which exposed the drum. Next, I remove the 2 screws along each side that allows the front door panel to detached. I noticed that there was damage to the plastic bearing and 3 bearing pads were missing. That was the source of the noise. Once the door panel is lifted off the cabinet, the wires to the safety switch must be pulled off so the door can be set aside out of the way. Then I went to the rear and remove 2 more screws that gave access to the motor, wiring and the tensioner for the dryer belt. Once I gained access to the belt, I slipped it off the tensioner and drive pulley. This allows the drum to be removed from the cabinet. WE wrestled the drum out before realizing that we should have removed another 2 screws securing the sides of the dryer to a cross support under the front of the drum. This would have made the removal of the drum much easier. Once the drum was removed, I had access to the heating coils. Upon examining, I saw that both had burned out at the far left terminals. Directions that came with the new heating elements gave clear instructions on how to install. It's a little daunting to thread both elements through all the insulators, but patience paid off. Everything went back together easily and the dryer started up and heated up just like new.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

Replaced new screen in place of old one.

Snap out the broken part. Snap in the new part. Use caution with the wires, but don’t have to disconnect them.

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

First and most important - safety. Either unplug the dryer or shut off the circuit breaker. Remove the two screws to the top cover. To locate these screws just open the door as they are located at the top of the door opening. Remove screws and lift up the top cover and carefully pull towards you. Place to the side away from the work area. This now will expose two screws within the side panels holding the front door and front housing. Remove the two screws, lift up and out to remove front housing assemble. Be careful when you remove as the wiring to the light fixture is included. Just remove cover and place side ways close to the dryer.
Remove the bulb then remove the white plastic drum bearing (snaps out or in when replacing with a flat screwdriver).
Prior to installing the new drum bearing install the four white slide strips on top of the drum bearing. Review the old parts for comparison. These actually act as the bushings between the drum bearing and the clothes drum. Please keep in mind the slides do not come with the drum bearing when ordering. You must order seperately. Once the new assemble is snapped into the metal front cover/door now you can re-assemble. While you have the drum exposed it's a good time to check the belt for wear. Sometimes a worn or ripped belt can be the same symptom of the thumpimg sound. For the assemble just reverse all the earlier steps. Plug cord back in or turn on the circuit breaker and run the dryer. You should be good to go for more years of service.

Our gas GE "Eterna" King Sized capacity dryer started squeaking one day. I was suprised since the dryer was only a few years old, but assumed some grit had invaded and worn a bearing in the belt tensioner. My wife and I have three kids, so we use the dryer daily. The sound got louder quickly and finally it was so loud I had do something. After unplugging the appliance I took the top off the dryer (two screws in the top of the door jam) and the front off (two screws at the top of each corner) and in doing so saw that the drum bearing, which is just a round plastic
"shelf" on which the tumbler drum rides, suspended over the door, was worn through. There were four little "slides" on the bearing surface, and all but one was worn down to dust. I ordered the replacement bearing and slides (two white, I didn't know I also needed two green and have since bought them too) from Part Select and they arrived in about three days. In the meantime I re-assembled the dryer easily and we did use it once or twice, shrieking. When the parts came in I installed them in about 20 minutes, screwing the new bearing onto the rear surface of the front panel, right over the opening for the dryer door. The dryer has worked perfectly since. I used one Phillips head screwdriver for the whole job and paid about $50.00 for the parts. I work in an office and I travel, and when I was a kid I fixed my own cars and stuff, but I'm no appliance repairma! Nevertheless, this was easy! I assume I saved at least $100. The dryer works perfectly and more importantly, it's quiet again!

Looked at the diagram on your web site and replaced part

Dryer was making a horrible noise. When I took it apart I noticed that the from side dryer bearing was ruined. Ordered the part with the slide bars and replaced...Works great...

I read the repairs that others had posted and how they did it. It was really easy. My only complaint is that I didn't know that I needed the slides that attached to the bearing and couldn't find them on the repair list. My dryer had a spot for 4 of them and only 1 was left. Otherwise, being a female, I felt great to be able to fix it myself! Thanks!
Let me also say, I only have one good working arm/hand.

Unscrewed the old, screwed in the new making sure wires matched up same as before. Reset my breaker and works like new again.

if your unit has over 6,000 hours of operations, one needs to remove the front panel and inspect the sliders that the drum rides on. The video were very helpful to replace the sliders. Unfortunately, my dryer had over 10,000 hours of operations over a 30 years period, hence a major repair costing over $200.00 dollars. The drum sliders were gone, hence the drum eat through the plastic guides. More so, the drum started to eat away the front panel. If the dryer is eating your closes and making a noise, one is looking at a $200.00 repair job. Hence check the sliders early will save one $$$$.