DDC0580VEL General Electric Dryer - Instructions

nd removed it from the unit.
5. replaced drum bearings
6. reassembled everything in the same order I took it off.

Be sure to mark any wires you may disconnect to ensure you connect them back correctly.
Was a bit frustrating at times, but made it through and there is no more squeek.

Checked out problem found belt broke and order part from part select and when it got in I replaced the belt and then found pully bad too. so I order that part from ya'll and it tok less than 5 mint to install. everything went very well and I and my wife are very happy with everything.
Thank's Partselect,
John& Roxanna

Removed old lint filter and replaced with new one. Was impressed with the fast delivery.

After taking the dryer apart and not finding anything that looks like the one I have in this box that I ordered, I got the right part and dryer is working find.

Deftly removed the old lint trap and placed the new frame in place. It worked perfectly. Hands only repair.

Pop off the old, pop on the new. I did it with one hand, the 'hard' part was putting the access panal back on.

unscrewed and lifted top of dryer put belt around drum closed top put belt around motor pulley and belt tensioner and finished.( remember to unplug unit before working on it.)

Unscrewed the top lid screws located in door opening.Removed lid.Unscrewed the front cover screws located at top corners of cover, underneath where the top lid was.Pulled out drum,removing belt at same time.Removed the rear bearing unit,installed new one.Really easy.Took front bearing off front cover,it just snaps on.Installed new bearing,with 4 new slides.Reassembled machine,replacing old belt at the same time.Done.It really is that easy.Spent more time cleaning lint out of dryer interior than actual mechanical work,I think.

Change the coil by removing the cotter pin around drum in the back I accidently removed the 3 star bits and the front and it was hard getting back together. The coils are easy to change, but found that the coil wasn't the issue it was the cyclical thermosat underneath the lint catcher in front. The part (heater coil) works better than the older one, so I guess it wasn't a complete screw up. I read up on a few others and think I should have check thermostat first oops. good luck

My General Electric clothes dryer (model DDE7206RAL) was running to hot. I went on the internet and goggled “General Electric clothes dryer gets to hot”. This led me to the “partselect.com” website which listed two possibilities for a fix along with a schematic of the dryer. I ordered both parts: 1) high limit thermostat – part WE4X584 which is listed as #507 on the schematic and 2) Thermostat- limit 145-15 listed as part #315 on the schematic. Replacing these parts is an easy fix. It took me about an hour to replace both parts. I can do it a second time in 15 minutes.

I only needed two tools and a flashlight to replace both parts. I unplugged the dryer. I opened up the dryer door to access the four screws that held the hinged dryer top. I used a Craftsman TORX T15 screwdriver to take out the four screws then lifted the hinged top to expose the #507 high limit thermostat (back right on the exposed drum). The thermostat is designed so that it can not be replaced in the wrong position. This thermostat is held in place with two ¼ inch screws. I took out the old thermostat and then replaced the electrical contacts one by one as I removed them from the old thermostat to the new thermostat and then replaced the new sensor with the ¼ screws. I then closed the dryer lid and replaced the four screws that secured the lid.

The part #315 (thermostat-limit 145-15) is accessed from where you put the cloths into the dryer. The thermostat part that senses the temperature are exposed inside the drum but the actual location of the sensors are underneath the lint filter and covered by part #305. Part #315 is held in place by two screws located on the inside of the drum.
Open the dryer door and remove the lint screen. Stick your head in the dryer to see two thermostats sensors (parts #315 and #316). Part #315 is the one on the left as you look down at the two thermostats sensors. You will see four screws inside the dryer drum. Take out only the top two screws inside the dryer using the TORX T15 screwdriver. Then the cover (part #305 on the schematic) can be lifted out from under where the lint screen had been positioned. REMOVE ANY LINT FROM THE EXPOSED screws which are held in place by part #311 clips on the schematic. Then remove the bottom left screw (the other screw holding the #315) from inside the drum while holding the #311 clip located underneath the lift screen ( I suggest that you put a piece of duct tape on the #311 clip to keep it from falling as you loosen up the screw from inside the dryer drum.) The old thermostat is now free and can be lifted out from underneath where the lint screen had been positioned. The thermostat #315 has a marking on the original and the replacement. I just replaced the new with the same relative markings positions that were on the old #315 and the same for the electrical connections. The hardest part of this replacement was putting in the new #315 bottom left screw. I had to put a piece of tape on the #311 clip to start the replacement of the bottom left screw then I removed the tape after the bottom left screw had been replaced. After that was in place it was just a matter of replacing the cover (part #305- the top two screws from inside the drum) and the lint screen.

The dryer worked perfectly the next run of dirty clothes. $27 plus postage. What a deal.

I didn't know what was wrong at first, only that the dryer would not start. I bought it used so had no fear of taking it apart to diagnose. Found the broken belt inside, ordered a replacement, installed the new belt, then crossed my fingers. Was pleasantly surprised that was all that was wrong and that for less than $20, including shipping, a few hours of my time, and a little help from YouTube videos the dryer is working again!

There is a plastic female closure part in the dryer door that wouldn't close tightly around the metal male closure on the dryer. I popped out the plastic square with a screwdriver, popped the new plastic closure in with my thumb. Works great. I never even installed the new metal portion of the latch.

remove two bolts in back on the top two corners. four tiny screws right inside the door. the top comes off with the wires still attached. looking down from the back on the left side of the dryer there is the high limit thermostat two wires and two tiny bolts and it is out; it is very tight. The thermostat- limit 145-15 is located in the lint trap. top is off looking down the front of the dryer there are two bolts remove those pull up on the whole front move it off to the side open door remove the ring by tiny screws and lint trap. you can see the nose of the thermostat remove three screws that is holding a metal cover on and thermostat in place. Remember don`t lose a little metal clip for one of the screws it is tight space. Put everything back together and your done

sort of followed instructions, would have beenhelpfull if they told me I HAD TO REACH INTO THE MOUTH OF A SABRE TOOTHED TIGER to install the new belt.

The repair for the average untrained mechanicslly inclined " first off google directions/instruction picture step by step " we took off the wrong part which made this job difficult there is a part on the back that was removed prior to guided directions, called parts select they are awesome"our belt was delivered the next day on a 3 day weekend I was suprised second correct part sent anyone who took on this job , they will appreciatte all this . the belt was fairly easy to repair just do as directed follow guidelines. difficulty detaching a part that never should be"pain in the a" order your part from this company they rock" and picture guide and specific direction guideline @ this dryer has well outlived the money spent still kicking strong after several years of use hotpoint dryer