DG4720D1W General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Break up the broken knob easily with plyers.Once thats off then push on the new knob with your fingers that took 3 seconds ,fit perfect.

Removed two screws from front by door. Removed back panel to remove belt from tensioner. lifted lid of dryer. removed two more screws from inside to remove front panel. while holding the barrel I removed the front panel then grabbed barrel and pulled out. took off the old bearing, put the new one on and reassembled it the way I took it apart. The whole thing took about 10 min was quick and easy if there is any problems while you are doing it look it up on youtube.com and you can see it done.

the switch was stuck couldn't get the switch to pop out to stop the dryer when opening the door light inside also wouldnt go on. it only took a few min to take it the switch and replace the new switch the light now works also stops when opening the door it made my day easierhow easy it was to fix it. only take to use a pliers and screw driver.

place new filter in

After having a friend who repairs appliances come and diagnose the problem, I was able to find the parts I needed very easily at PartSelect. They came quickly and I removed the front panel, followed the instructions (they were not very detailed) and also had help reading some of the other posts from people on the website. I replaced the parts and the dryer is now quiet and running fine.

no instructions necessary for this part install

Deftly removed the old lint trap and placed the new frame in place. It worked perfectly. Hands only repair.

What to do if you have a load of wet laundry at 23:00, the dryer won’t start, and you have no spare start switch.
Removed rear access panel and discovered the wire from terminal #2 (goes to heater coils) on the start switch had melted and disconnected. The start switch showed signs of overheating but not melted. Removed the switch and found the switch’s actuator button was jammed in the ‘in’ position (dryer won't start). The switch was a friendly one in that it was possible to disassemble it. Most switches today are molded/glued together, but this one could be pried apart. The contacts inside were still in fair condition and, after dressing them, the switch was reassembled. The actuator button had a burr that was filed off and the switch action worked fine. All of the 1/4" male QC contacts on the switch were cleaned with a wire brush. The burned wire was cut back about 6” and a new piece of 14ga wire was spliced in with a wire nut. A new 1/4” QC terminal was crimped to the wire and all wires were re-attached to the switch.
This fix would probably last for a long time to come, but I bought a new switch and installed it and will keep the old switch as a backup.
p.s. The load of laundry was dry by 02:00.

The info from your web site was helpful. I had never taken a dryer apart and the instructions made the job easy. Used socket set to remove the back panel and top control panel. Then used a phillip's screwdriver to remove the two screws that hold the top of the dryer; these screws are accessed by opening the door to the dryer. To remove the front of the dryer remove to the two screws that are located at the top upper corners where front panel meet the side panel. Once these two screws are removed, remove the belt from around the drum and lift the drum out. The drum bearing is located on the back of the drum; remove the remnants of the old bearing and replace it with the new one. Retrace your steps to put the dryer back together. To get the belt back on track you will have to remove the lower back panel to access the belt drive and tension pulley. It is not difficult. God bless you.

Make sure your power is off, When loosened the top and tilted back, the first thing I saw was the door switch, I guess I was just lucky I disconnected the two wires and checked it and it was bad. Got my new one from you and installed it. It has a ground terminal, which my model switch only had the two terminals. It working fine.I took the bad switch apart and the one leg on the copper U shaped contact had broken off. The Belt I have as a spare.

Pop off the old, pop on the new. I did it with one hand, the 'hard' part was putting the access panal back on.

I suspected the idler pulley shaft was worn. I found the repalcement pulley on parts select web site. finding the part was very easy and delivery was very quick. After removing the dryer from the wall,I removed the access panel in the rear which exposed the motor, belt, and pulley. After removing the belt from the pulley, I removed the pully assembly from the dryer. I removed the keeper retaining ring on the pulley and installed the new pulley with the new parts supplied. The new pulley assembly was then ready for re-installation.

The ordering and receiving of the part were wonderfully easy, but the construction of the lint filter left a lot to be desired. Bits of wire extended past the edge of the frame and drew blood when held, so had to trim the wire screen that extended past the frame. Also, the wire screen was not attached continuously around the frame and had to be clamped and glued. I did appreciate that the filter fit my machine.