NWSR483GBW General Electric Dryer - Instructions

Took dryer apart replaced felt seal and the four drum slides put it back together works better now than when it was new!!!!!!

started with replacing the belt and tension pulley which I purchased from another source. I found your videos on line and they are great. easy to follow. Realized I needed the bottom vent assembly and your prices were better than my local supplier. It was easy to replace thanks to your video. It was nice that you included it in the final order status. The only problems. Did not know the duct felt seal was included with the new duct assembly. I ordered the wrong bearing slides, web site showed both green and white for my model. I now realize I should replace the upper bearing housing. Can I return the unused parts, unopened and have that put as a credit to my next order? Thanks

I replaced the dryer bearing ( a plastic part) and all of the slides on the bearing. It now operates like new.

On my GE Dryer the lint filter is located inside the door at the bottom. The filter can just be pulled out by hand & a new one pushed into place

good replacement procedure on you tube.

First I replaced the timer, but dryer still did not start. took apart dryer, jumper out door and componet near motor to see what problem was and to be able to run dryer while opened up. Actually motor had seized up just enough to not allow motor to start rotating. Lubricated motor shaft and rotated motor for oil to work its way in. Tried starting again and motor started. Buttoned dryer back up and reconnected wires to appropriate places and started dryer again and again.Worked for 4 loads of laundry and still working for 3 loads on Wednesday. Working fine

the pulley spring took so much pressure to hold it down it took 3 men and a boy to hold it and place it in position to to get the belt on. Also there is not enough room to get your arms and hands in without getting some small cuts.Ultimately I removed the screws in the back of the dryer and spread the side of the dryer out to gain proper access. It was an easy repair if the spring would not have been so strong.

Removed gas line. removed control panel, removed top, removed front, removed burner, replaced igniter, put back in. paused and played the video. very easy to do. 42 minutes and I had a few beers.

I replaced front and rear bearing.The rear I replaced because of cause and effect.There was some play so I am glad I replaced the rear too. Make sure you order drum slides. Ken

removed top, 2 hex screws, removed front 2 hex screws & 2 star screws. removed belt, slid drum out. Removed old bearing and replaced with new bearing kit. assembled in reverse.
It would help to have another person assist you.

Replaced the rear drum bearing. Not doing it before ,it took about 1 1/2 hrs. Problem was fixed.

Follow the instructions from YOUTUBE to replace the new drive belt..

Watched video instruction, paying attention to what it showed in machine. Several virsions of similar designs over the years, look over yours and note access points, take pictures as you go! Just pay attention, it is very logical. Spread the side panels to get the drum in and out, and pay attention to drum axel in back and the bushing it rides in. Be patient, be firm but gentle, no real forcing needed if you are alligned. Be sure the grooves of belt are on the drum, drive wheel on motor, no twists. Reverse order to reassemble. There are several internet videos of models with same basic setup, so look at others if one doesn't show the detail you need to see, or clear some uncertainty. Your local hardware to sorce push fastening for the idler wheel to shaft if you mash it up, they are cheep and several styles will work.

Exactly how your perfect video instructions showed me. Thank you for a job well done!

Called my son-in-law. Easy as pie