DE620EXD2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Used a screwdriver to pop out broken piece. Used pliers to snap in new one.

PF alarm appeared on display. Noticed clicking when cord was moved. Had arced for some time and melted original block. New part slightly different. Only has 3 lugs, old one had six. Stack using washers provided. Take note of colors before disassembly. Use caution while working through access opening. The edges are sharp. Only tools needed are phillips screwdriver, deep socket for lug nuts. Nut driver optional. Hope this is helpful.

Fixed it eventually with part PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). See separate story.

The flame sensor did not fix it but read on for info on how to replace this part. Before replacing this part, I should have read another posting in a different web site about the ignition coils: if you see a red glow inside the burner unit but the flame does not come on, then the problem is likely to be with the coils, not the flame sensor. However since some users here had solved the problem by replacing the flame sensors, I figured I'd try it. The setting for "More dry, less dry" never worked either so maybe this would fix two problems at once.

This dryer is a stacked front loader sitting on top of our washing machine. Opening the little front door (lower left side) is easy once you figure out that a little screw below needs to be removed. I almost broke the door trying to pull it open. The sensor is attached to the side of the flame area cylinder. It was hard to remove both the screw and the part itself from the slots as it's very springy. In fact when I finally removed it, it dropped to the base of the unit and sparks went flying as one of the electrical clips touched the metal (ground). Tip: first disconnect the electrical lead coming from the back of the unit to the ingnition block and later I used rubber gloves just in case. (I could not access the plug/outlet in the back). I installed the new part easily, though I was confused by the electrical leads: the white wire connects to the lead that has a red plastic dot on the side, but I think that must be a mechanical part and not a (wrong) marking, while the red connects to the other lead. Anyway, I connected it the same way I found it and put it back. Reconnected the other electrical wires and closed the door.

This did not fix the problem which turned out to be with the gas valve coils: as they get old, they turn off the flame when they get hot, even though the dryer keeps on turning. To read how to replace that part, search for comments under part number PS470049 ('M' Series Ignition Coil Kit). I don't know whether replacing the flame sensor is going to fix the "more dry-less dry" function, will have to see. Still, this website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fixes it's just like new.

Removed broken part. Pressed replacement into opening.

First of all, let me thank your wonder web site and service.


Here is the step-by-step procedure:


Unplugged the power.

Accessed the heater assembly from the front left lower corner.

Turned off the small gas valve.

Unscrewed the copper nut connecting the small gas valve and the heater assembly.

Disconnected the 3 wire connectors.

Unscrewed 2 screws under the heater assembly.

Took out the heater assembly.

Unscrewed the screw for the igniter assembly.

Installed the new igniter assembly. Be very careful with the M shaped coil. I broke a new one. That is why I have order the same part twice. But it still cost me less for hiring a tech or buying a new dryer.

Carefully put the heater assembly back into it position.

Connected the gas connector.

Secured the heater assembly to the bottom of the dryer with 2 screws.

Connected 3 wire connectors.

Turned on the small gas valve.

Plugged in and ran a test.

It worked!!.

Make Sure Dryer is off and disconnected from power! Also, beware of sharp edges on dryer parts and cabinet.
1) Popped-off top lid with flat-blade screw driver (Insert screw driver in joint between top and front of dryer above door) Spring clips are all that's holding top on in front
2) Unplugged plastic electrical connector located just along the top-right side of dryer
3) Removed one sheet metal screw located about 8" down from top on either side of dryer - total of two screws
4) Pull front of dryer back and pull up at bottom of dryer (Remember that when you replace front you will have to make sure plastic bearing surfaces on dryer tub are centered back in cut-out on front panel. Plastic tabs fit inside the cut-out or else you'll ge a swishing noise when tub rotates)
5) Set front panel to side
6) Flame sensor is located on the left side of the burn chamber sheet metal cover. It has a red and white wire with flat connectors that must be pulled off. Note which color goes to what terminal
7) Unscrew fastener. Note: this screw/fastener needs a non-standard driver to get it out. I have a variety of other drivers beyond phillips/flat types and non of them worked.
8) I ended up using a pair of pliers to just work it out from under the screw. I bent it, as it has a tab that slips in along left bottom edge of burn chamber cover.
9) Finish taking screw out by hand
10) Put new flame sensor in by inserting tab on bottom first. Then, screw in fastener to top of sensor bracket and reconnect wires. White on top and red on bottom terminal.
11) Replace front panel with door by placing in tabs on bottom front of dryer. Again, make sure plastic bearing surfaces are inside of circular flange on front panel
12) Make sure to reconnect plastic cable connector. Note: I added a tie-wrap because it looked like the connector might rub against drum. There are some holes through which you can run the tie-wrap
13) Replace the two sheet-metal screws
14) Push top down so spring clips re-engage with dryer body

unplugged the dryer, discontected the sensor and unscrewed the bracket, replaced the new one and put the connectors back on, screwed the bracket back on and that was it. Very easy fix for a female who does not do much of these sort of repairs but learning.

remove new latch from package, insert into dryer door frame push into place with thumb until it snaps into place. Done!

I unpluged the machine. Pried out the old switch with the tip of a screw driver. Pried off the connectors, there was not enough extra wire for me to connect the new switch through the front of the machine. I pushed the new switch in place. Using the screw driver I carefully pried open the top front of the machine { there were 2 plastic spring clips securing the top}. I placed a wash bucket on the drum to hold the top open , connected the 2 connectors to the switch and snapped top back in place.

I watched a You Tube video first. I used a screwdriver to loosen the part that was attached to the dryer. I pulled it out of the dryer with pliers. I pushed the new part into place. The old latch worked fine so I did not replace it.

It was really easy just unplugged it took off the back cover changed the part out put back cover on plugged it in and the elements were working great!

Removed the wires that I could, then terminal block. Installing the new terminal block was very easy; however the wires that arced were fused to the terminal bock screws and needed to be cut and new connectors had to be put on the wires to allow them to be reattached to the block safely.
Once all was replaced and reinstalled the oven has worked great. The length of the repair was increased because of the melted parts and having to run to the store to get the new wire connectors big enough to fit on the wires. If we were simply replacing the block and had not encountered the melted ends, it would have been a very quick and easy repair.

The appliance is gas, which made me a little nervous. However, knowing that I had the gas off, I carefully began disassembly. The burner unit is a very simple set up and within a few minutes I had the entire assembly out and noticed that in fact the igniter was broken. I ordered a new one from partselect.com and it was delivered in 2 days! The worst part of the assembly was when I accidentally bumped the new igniter against the underside of the dryer and broke the brand new one!!!..So, I ordered a second igniter and 2 days later installed it in about 30 minutes.

my original part arrived and it did not fit. When I called to explain the problem I was told it was the wrong part. The big problem is... Frigidaire calls the receptacle a terminal block kit as well as a terminal block kit which is a totally different part. I tried to explain that to several different folks I spoke to at your company as well as Frigidaire but I'm not sure if I got that point across. Take a look at part # 530 393 5058 and part # 530 440 9888 and you will see that they both mention terminal block kit. Hopefully the part I am getting from Frigidaire is an OEM part and will fit.

Literally pop it in the small opening. Super easy and works perfectly now!