FSG747GC Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Remove top cover and front and remove drum and install a new bearing kit and new belt.

As all others have said, without being redundant, I'd view post #1 or #2 for a good detailed set of instructions.

The primary issue I had was with the stainless steel ball bearing that was shipped with the kit. I couldn't figure out what it was used for, because when I removed the bearing carrier the ball fell out before I could see where the original one was located. The stainless ball bearing is a grounding ball, not a bearing. It goes on the exterior of the plastic bearing carrier/receiver.

Once I figured that part out, it was a piece of cake.

Took a little longer than other people's repairs, but I also put a new belt on and re-worked the exhaust duct for solid ducting versus flexible duct. fine-tuning the rigid duct work was a piece of cake with the tumbler out, since i could crawl right inside the chassis and make sure everything would line up (level legs, adjust elbows, etc)

Took a putty knife and released top clips. Tipped top back , and took out 4 screws holding front cover in place. Lifted out drum, replaced bearing plate. Removed 2 screws and replaced back panel bearing. Placed drum back in place, installed front panel, snapped top back in place and job was done. Very easy. Took about one hour.

disconnect power and remove front panel and controls.
Remove old belt and reassemble. Had trouble getting the front drum seal with the load bearing glides to fit as trying to replace the screws that supported it. Getting the belt under the motor to the pulley which is beween the mottor and the blower is a trip.
Anyway done and working. Thanks for being there with the poarts at a fair price

Taking apart the dryer was easy. Pop the top, take out two screws, separate the front panel from the drum. Removed the old felt seals but much remained. Used a wire wheel on my drill to clean off felt and old glue (most difficult part). Applied new glue,used a band clamp, one hour later I reassembled the dryer; works fine. No more burn marks on clothes!

removed old seal and drum glide. sanded off old glue. replaced with new parts, cleaned out the whole bottom of the dryer, runs good as new.

First I took the drum out of the dryer. This was an easy tear down. I had to remember 2 wires, and a belt assembly ( 2 pullies ). I removed 3 screws inside the drum to release the bearing assembly from the back. Then I went to the dryer chasis and removed the mounting bracket by removing 2 screws. I simply replaced the mounting bracket with the new one. This required having to use a magnet to hold a small ball bearing in place while I worked the rest of the pieces in position.I greased it up and went back to the drum. I replaced the old bearing assembly with the new one. Easy. I took the time to shop-vac the inside of the dryer. There was a lot of loose lint, candy rappers, coins, etc. Finally, I put it back together. Unfortunately, this is the forth (4th) time I've had to do this. It's cheaper than buying a new dryer. Now, I've got to fix the washer.

Popped the topped using a putty knife to free two clips in front. Remove two screws now accessible on the front inside panel. Remove two wires to door switch. Remove rear access door, two screws. Remove belt from tensioner in rear and remember or take picture of how it goes. Lift barrel slightly and pivot front panel out of the way. Lift barrel free from ball socket in rear. Lift out from front panel area. R & R kit and put back in reverse order.

I popped the top lid of the dryer which has hinges in the rear allowing it to be lifted. This exposes the drum. The front panel then can be detached using a nut driver and phillips screwdriver. The door shut off switch must be then removed so the front panel can be pulled away. I used an adjustable wrench to remove the lock nut. Once the front panel is clear of the drum, the felt and nylon glides are exposed. I removed the felt using a paint scraper, and cleaned the adhesive residue with lacquer thinner. The provided high temperature adhesive was then applied, I waited a minute per the directions, then applied the new felt and glides. The dryer reassembles in reverse of the above disassembly, making sure not to forget to reinstall the door switch. I plugged the dryer back in, and ran a load of laundry in quiet efficiency. Your part arrived quickly, the directions were good, and the dryer now works wonderfully.

I followed the video example which very clearly showed how to do the repair. Much easier than I had expected.

I first diagnosed the problem using a Google search. Amazing how many hits I got and after reading a few was pretty certain what the cause was and what parts I probably needed to make the repair.
Some of the articles I read had links or mentioned PartSelect, so I searched for my model # and found the parts I would probably need. Knowing that I could probably get the parts I needed I disassembled the dryer (pretty easy really) and removed the old suspect part. It was devoid of lubricant and the bearing and ball showed some wear so I ordered the Bearing Assembly suggested by PartSelect (the illustrations looked just like my old parts). I left the dryer disassembled while I waited for the part, figuring it would take a week or so to arrive.
Much to my surprise, the part arrived three days later and after cleaning the dryer innards of all collected lint I put it all back together in 30 minutes.
So for a little research, a $30 part, and about an hour of my time, I have a clean and quiet operating dryer. I see no reason I can't get another 10 or so years out of it.
I consider myself a reasonably handy guy but had never worked on a dryer before. I'll be unlikely to ever call a repairman without first doing some investigation and seeing if the parts are available. With the internet and PartSelect I think I could take on a lot of other repairs I'm not familiar with. Thanks for a great outcome this time around.
Kevin

We followed Randy from Anchorage, AK's notes pretty much. Took off the top and front panels. Changed the drum glide and lower seal without any problems. Changing the belt proved more difficult. If it's not broke, I wouldn't change it. If you do, DEFINITELY pay attention to how it is looped around the pulleys before disconnecting it (I would take a photo). Definitely open the back of the dryer to do the belt - otherwise the pulley falls before you see how it is connected

Took front door off, top off, frunt off, removes screws holding rear bearing pivot, and then removed drum. repainted bearing surface on drum, installed parts, let paint dry for a day and reassembled.

Moved dryer out where I could get to all sides, then pulled top off, then unscrewed the front panel. The drum lifted out of it's ball bearing assembly in the back with a little force. Then it slid out fairly easy.

I replaced the rear bearing assembly, the bottom drum glide strip, the top drum glide and the vent seal all at the same time. The glue for the glide strips took about an hour to set up and I used clothes pins every 4-6 inches as suggested by someone else here on this site. Then I vaccuumed out the entire dryer body, vent pipes and every nook and cranny.

I put everything back as it had come out and then put the dryer back in it's place. Plugged it back in and it's as quiet as when it was new. Total time of project was about 1:45.

This is the second time that I have replaced these parts on this unit. The top pops up and then removing two screws holding the front panel on,just pop it off - don't forget to unplug the connector on the top right. Scrape the old drum glide and basket seal off of the front panel making sure you get as much as possible off, clean the surface and re-glue both pieces back onto the panel. The glue set up pretty fast so don't linger. Re-assemble and you're good to go. The hardest part is getting the old glide and seal off - that took about 1 hour of scraping. Make sure you get it clean.