8338B Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Once I found this site, with everybody's description of the problem & fix, it was pretty easy.
Pry the front of the top up using a flat screwdriver at each side. Then disconnected the dryer-controls wire bundle (dryer unplugged of course) at the connector, and unscrewed 1 screw on each side of the front panel close to the top (under the controls, back-side of the panel), in order to pry the front panel off - top 1st.
With everything opened up, just unscrew the two screws on top of the burner coil. the pull off the plate, slip off the 2 coils, disconnect the wires, and install the new coils in reverse. Put it all back together and you're good!
(I replaced the drum glides too, while I was in there - just in time!)

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

I raised up the top then took 4 bolts out of the front and it came off and then I slipped the belt on. Now was the fun part. I tried to put belt around the tension spring from the front of the machine. Bad mistake. So I turned the machine around and took off little plate bottom left, back side reached in and WA-LA back in commision. I took a long brush and cleaned all I could reach and put it back together. Bingo, back in business.
And I'm 71 yrs. old.

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

As others have described in more detail... I lifted the top, removed the 2 screws holding the front panel (one on each side, inside the control panel on either side - not the easiest to get at, but not too bad), popped the clips holding the front panel in place and removed it. With the front panel off, the location of the coils is obvious (lower left side). The only challenging aspect of this repair is that the 2 screws holding the coils in place are really torqued in so it was crucial to use the exactly correct size screwdriver and not let the screwdriver slip while unscrewing those screws. Actually swapping out the coils took seconds, of course they have to go in exactly the same way as the old ones. I did take a few minutes extra to vacuum out years of lint from the inside of the dryer. Overall, much easier and cheaper than I was expecting and now I know where everything is inside the cabinet.

I unpluged the dryer, raised the top cover up, removed 2 two screws & pulled front cover out. Removed the old seal, cleaned the area & installed the new seal. Reinstalled as new. Very, very easy.

Lifted broken screen out and replaced it with a new one. Extremely simple.

uncrew old, take out, put new in, screw in place.

/removed the lint screen & tossed in the trash, removed one screw from each side of the frame with a screw driver. Placed the New frame in place
& secured it with the screws that I removed from the old frame, placed the screen in place & that was all there was to it. The total amount of time to remove the old & replace with the new probably took 10-15 min. @ the most. I am so happy to have found the part & was able to replace it. You all are wonderful. Received it in 3 days, WOW!!

The first thing I did was logged onto the internet to search the web for my dryer information. Next, after I found the correct model, the site referred me to the parts section and that is where I determined the problem was the M series ignition coil. I then unplugged the dryer and turned off the gas. I took a screwdriver and popped the top off and cut the wire straps that held the door strips and the light to the front panel. I then unplugged the door switch at the connector - HOWEVER - DO NOT TRY TO REMOVE THE WIRES FROM THE ACTUAL DOOR SWITCH BECAUSE THEY ARE VERY FRAGILE AND CAN EASILY BREAK. Next, I removed the two screws that hold the front panel on. By using a slight bit of pressure, I removed the front panel and was able to locate where the ignition coil switch was. (It was right in front) I then removed the two screws that held the clamp down, as well as the bad coils. The coils easily slid off the post and the new pieces slid back on just as easy. I then replaced the screws and clamps to hold the new pieces in place and replaced the front panel. **NOTE ~ while the front panel is off, it would be a good time to clean out all the built up dirt and lint that has accumulated over the years. Lastly, I re-connected all switches and wires and replaced the top panel. Once I turned the gas back on, everything ran beautifully.