FASE7074NR2 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

Blower wheel came apart from molded-in nut, was loose, was rubbing on housing wall, and was likelynot moving to much air. I read some troubled stories about separating the wheel nut from the motor shaft so bought a new motor and blower housing and install wall pretty easy. There are videos on the teardown process and does that long and not alot of parts to keep track of either. I have already done the felt drum liner and rear drum ball and belt so if it's older than 15 years and your going to take the dryer apart, replace all these parts and you will about have new dryer at half the cost of new.

First i replaced the drum bushing on the rear of the drum ,it was definitely bad but noise was still there
Decided it was the blower assy , pulled the dryer out disconnected the power,took off the frt panel with the door, disconnected the wiring to motor remover motor and fan assy, most trouble i had was fan is on motor with reverse threads messed with removing fan until I figured out it was backwards after that removed old fan and housing installed new one ,put dryer back together,started it and only normal noises
Good for another 5 years
Chuck

Unplugged dryer. Removed top panel (2 screws top back of dryer). Removed control panel ( Unplugged from control board and 2 screws) Removed front panel with door ( Unplugged light from control board, door switch at connector, and 4 screws) Removed Control Thermister from dryer exhaust blower housing located bottom front of dryer ( Unplugged 2 wires and removed 2 screws ) Installed new Control Thermister and replaced all screws and panels in reverse order. Note: Noticed connector for door switch seemed a little loose when connected correctly. Used electrical tape to reinforce connection. Plugged dryer back in and checked operation. Dryer has been used approximately 10 times since repair with no issues.

popped in one in

I replaced the Control Thermistor (part # PS1149368) by removing the two screws on the bottom of the lower panel below the door. You will see the Control Thermistor just below and to the left of the discharge chute. Remove the two screws holding the Control Thermistor in place. Disconnect the two wire and reconnect to new Control Thermistor. Replace screws in reverse order of above.

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

Replaced everything on the dryer till I got the right problem, seriously, I now have a new dryer in an old body, still came out alot cheaper than buying a new one. I listened to every sound on youtube but none sounded like my dryer.

Such an easy repair that I should have done months ago. I knew the gasket was failing but kept fixing the old one until it finally broke apart and couldn't be reused. The new gasket installed within minutes and fit perfectly, not to mention I no longer have to deal with it every time I do the laundry.

Fast and easy. Started by pulling out refrigerator and unplugging it. Water valve for ice maker was already turned off due to leaking. Disconnected old valve, detached old valve, reattached new valve and reconnected water lines. Bled the lines and turned back on. Make sure temp in freezer stays at recommended temps for ice making.

Turn off water, un-plug refrigerator, dis-connect water, un-screw bracket, remove valve and replace same way...Very easy