FDE436RES0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

The how to video was great. I had a little problem with getting the belt back on the pulleys. Not enough room for my hands. I did manage to get it back on ,and runs great

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

After changing the drum support bearing, and the front felt ring, the noise continued. It turned out to be the tensioner pully. The harmonic vibration travels throughout the dryer box like an instrument so you can't tell where the sound is comming from. Before you do anything, spray a little wd40 between the bushing and the shaft on the belt tenioner pully. If the squeel goes away, you have found your smoking gun.

So easy! I ordered the part on the website. Received it 24 hours later. And popped it in place. Good as new.

Open the top of the dryer. Reach inside and remove 2 screws that hold the front in place. Detach the power cord inside where there is a connector. Remove the front of the dryer. That exposed the drum glide where all three nylon guides had worn off.

Peel off the old guide. Clean the surface with sandpaper. Use the supplied adhesive to glue on the new guide. Use masking tape to hold it while it dried.

Reverse the first paragraph to re-install.

Ordered in new Element. (took apart dryer first and verified the coil on the old element was broken).

-Disconnected power
-Used flat blade screw driver and popped the top of the dryer off (two clips at front of the dryer on the door piece). Pull lid back and it will rest on its own.
-Removed two screws on the inside of the front door panel then used flat blade to pop four clips off. Lift up then out to removed door panel, drum will fall down.
-Removed small white plastic rest from front frame.
-Removed back silver vent to access motor. Pull the belt tensor away from assembly and pull belt out.
-Remove drum by grabbing belt and front of drum and forcing it up until it releases from the ball housing. Slide drum out of the front of frame/dryer.
-From here you can see the heating element. disconnect the coil wires (pull them). These are in series so it doesn't matter how they go back on. Disconnect the thermostat wires (X is negative lead).
-Removed the four screws from the back of the dryer to disengaged the element. Removed.
-Reassemble backwards.

First unplugged the dryer took off the top. Removed the 2 screws holding the front panel on. Scraped and cleaned old drum glide and lower basket seal. glued new seals on replaced lightbulb while I had it apart then reassembled. It was an easy job and the wife is now happy again.. Thanks to Partselect.
Mike

replaced bearing and shaft new belt and everything works just fine

Disconnected power cord; lifted top using putty knife to open spring holds on the sides of the top; released front panel by removing screw from each side;removed old glide and glue; glued new piece in place; reconnected all parts and let dry overnight.

A caution to take care of sharp/rough edges when removing old felt and glide. Goof Off worked well enough along with elbow grease to remove the old glue. A stonger solvent may have worked better, but did not want fumes and residue in the area.

Fit of new glide was straightforward and fit well to the lower felt glide..

(Turns out that the squeak was primarily from the rear bearing that needed some cleaning and grease, but am glad to have replaced the worn front glide)

I am a "do-it-yourselfer" despite my husbands opposition. I followed instructions from one of the posts on the site and took apart the dryer. I found the location of the rear bearing and took it out and replaced it with the new one. Easy as that. Made sure the parts looked the same. Made sure I saw how everything went together. I used a magnet to hold the ball bearing in place on the rear mount and taped the metal bracket on the outside of the dryer. Screwed it right in. Reassembled in reverse and works like a charm. To all the women out there who don't think they can do this. It's easy. Give it a try.

Remove rear control panel cover and remove drum belt from pulleys. remove top cover by pushing in on the 2 hold down fasteners on the front with flat head srewdriver. remove front panel by removing the 2 screws and then pop it out by lifting up. disconnect the wires at the quick connect plugs and set the front aside. lift the drum up to pop it out of the bearing housing and move forward slightly to give youself good access to the wires for the heating element and disconnect the 2 wires. remove drum the reset of the way out and do your work. Replacing the heating pan and drum bearing is pretty obvious what to do. (just a few screws). remove thermal cutoff switch from old pan and install on new pan. reinstall in reverse. no need to label wires because it doesn't matter where the wires go an a switch (justs makes and breaks a circuit) and the heater doesn't matter as long as both wires are hooked up to complete the circuit. You can't mess up the quick connectors on the door. Only my heater failed but I also replaced the drum bearing as long as I had it all apart (only another ~$20). Take the time to clean out the dust from inside the dryer, it will help the blower motor run cleaner and cooler and last longer. I bought a belt also to have on hand for replacement. I didn't replace it since my old one was good and it is real quick to replace at a later time.

UNPLUGGED the dryer!!! Search this site they have instructions for many of the tasks they sell parts for... disconnect the vent hose, removed the access panel for the motor & belt (rear) (1/4 nut driver), slipped the belt off the idler pulley and motor pulley, carefully lifted the front edge of the top panel & rotated it back on the hinges, labeled and removed the door interlock wires (2), removed 4 screws securing the top of the front panel (5/16 nut driver) (magnetic is best), removed a yellow guide also attached to the top of the front support (5/16 nut driver), rotated the top of the front panel clear of the drum opening (while supported) and lifted the front panel off the bottom guides, carefully lifted the back of the drum straight up about an inch while supporting the front of the drum, remove the drum from the opening created by removing the front panel (the belt should come out with the drum, removed the rear parts of the new bearing (atteched to teh back of the dryer) 5/16 nut driver... you will need a helper to catch the ball bearing holder on the exterior back of the dryer in the middle, unscrew the drum half of the bearing assembly from inside the drum (3 phillips head screws). I have done this several years ago and you will be amazed at how much dust and lint there is... CLEAN AND VACUUM EVERYWHERE AND THEN ALL THE PLACES YOU MISSED DONT FORGET THE VENT HOSE. Clean all of the old grease from the back of the drum and dryer. Installation is the reverse of removal. Don't forget the new grease and DON"T loose the cute little ball bearing that comes in the new kit. There are lots of sharp metal edges inside so use caution and hopefully you got a new belt since belt replacement requires all of the same steps except for the actual bearing removal.

I can attest to this system only on my model since this is the second bearing I have done.

Sure beats the cost of a new dryer!!! Thanks PARTS SELECT This is the 5th appliance I have repaired for freinds and family with parts purchased from your site.

1.Removed access panel on back of machine in order to place a block under the drum(see step 3).2. Removed the top (clips), 3.removed the front panel(clips), block placed under drum earlier prevents drum from tilting and makes removing front panel with door very easy.4. Slipped new belt on. 5.Replaced front panel and removed block under drum. 6. Aligned belt and checked movement of drum, 7. attched belt to pulley on motor and positioned belt tensioner.8. Installed top and access panels.
This repair is very straight forward, block under drum makes things easy, since the drum stays level when the front panel is removed and replaced.

First, I popped the two clips that hold on the top. Then, I removed two screws and unplugged a few wire connectors to remove the front panel. I scraped off the felt, which was rubbing the drum since the white plastic glides had worn completely through. I applied the high-temp adhesive liberally, laid on the new felt, and applied some spring clamps to hold it in place. I removed the small back panel to replace the belt, which was really easy with the dryer apart. The 7-year-old original belt was a little cracked.

First of all, I LOVE Partselect.com.. The parts are reasonable, and arrive in a timely fashion.. The repair stories are far and away, one of the BEST features of this website - so hats off to the DIY'ers who have helped me overcome my challenges and helped me stay in the ..ahem.. "favorable" graces of my wife.. I need all the help I can get there.. Anyway, read the other repair stories first - LOTS of great insight.. I only have a couple pointers to add - below...

This is easily my 4th appliance repair project with Partselect.com, and I can say without a doubt that the experience has been positive every single time.. Until now.. I got the dryer torn down and realized that I SHOULD have ordered the SEAL-BASKET LOWER felt with my original order. When I inspected it for my list of parts to order, the upper glide was thrashed - no brainer.. I thought the lower felt was fine.. d'oh! I discovered this morning that I was wrong.. So, I JUST ordered the lower basket seal for *next* weekend.. (If you are gonna replace the original upper glide, replace the lower basket seal as well..) It'll be a slam dunk, though..

Now, for a couple useful tips:

If you are a car guy, get out your trusty can of brake parts cleaner to help clean off the old adhesive residue after you rip off the old upper glide felt. I also used a 1" plastic scraper to help facilitate removal, but the brake parts cleaner was a Godsend. I think I read someone else's suggestion to use "goof off" or whatever - but I couldn't find mine, so..... ...out came the brake cleaner... :) two thumbs up. Just use it sparingly - all those solvents are bad for children in California for some odd reason..

Spring loaded clamps to hold the felt down as the glue dries are also "nice to have". I used one on each end of the felt, and one for each of the teflon / plastic glides..

Finally - milk this job for all it's worth - it'll only take you 45-60 minutes or so... good luck...!!!