GLEQ2170KE0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

First i replaced the drum bushing on the rear of the drum ,it was definitely bad but noise was still there
Decided it was the blower assy , pulled the dryer out disconnected the power,took off the frt panel with the door, disconnected the wiring to motor remover motor and fan assy, most trouble i had was fan is on motor with reverse threads messed with removing fan until I figured out it was backwards after that removed old fan and housing installed new one ,put dryer back together,started it and only normal noises
Good for another 5 years
Chuck

Blower wheel came apart from molded-in nut, was loose, was rubbing on housing wall, and was likelynot moving to much air. I read some troubled stories about separating the wheel nut from the motor shaft so bought a new motor and blower housing and install wall pretty easy. There are videos on the teardown process and does that long and not alot of parts to keep track of either. I have already done the felt drum liner and rear drum ball and belt so if it's older than 15 years and your going to take the dryer apart, replace all these parts and you will about have new dryer at half the cost of new.

Just opened package and popped the part right in!

Very slowly and carefully, you tube videos and schematic very helpful.

popped in one in

I researched possible causes on line and watched a PartsSelect video on YouTube on how to test. I ended up misreading test results and ordered the High Limit Thermostat but subsequently realized problem was the Terminal Block. No problem, PartsSelect took back the Thermostat (I hadn't installed it) and shipped me the Terminal Block. My dryer was back up and running in less than 7 days from initial analysis to installation of Terminal Block. Instructions that came in confirmation email for installation were perfect and easy to follow. Total cost with new power cord from Home Depot was less than $50 vs a quoted service call of $175+ parts from local electrician.

All I had to do was pop in the new door catch. Works perfectly.

I seen a post on your website referring to the exact problem I was having. One of your staff recommended changing the control thermistor, which I did following the U-Tube video link you supplied. The repair went well and the dryer now operates perfectly ! Thanks for the accurate and helpful info.

I purchase one tube of heat resistant adhesive but I change both seals if you could afford to buy a second to I would recommend you do so the one tube just made it. For instructions on how to prepare the drum for installing new seals I went on YouTube

I had to grip the broken piece that was still attached to the screw with a pair of needle nose pliers and then unscrew it from the back side. After taking the screw out of the other end,I just put the new handle on and screwed it in. Very easy!

I replaced the Control Thermistor (part # PS1149368) by removing the two screws on the bottom of the lower panel below the door. You will see the Control Thermistor just below and to the left of the discharge chute. Remove the two screws holding the Control Thermistor in place. Disconnect the two wire and reconnect to new Control Thermistor. Replace screws in reverse order of above.

Replaced everything on the dryer till I got the right problem, seriously, I now have a new dryer in an old body, still came out alot cheaper than buying a new one. I listened to every sound on youtube but none sounded like my dryer.

replaced door handle

Simply removed the old broken handle screws and replaced it with the new one.

Very easy fix. Removed remaining bottom mounting screw and removed old door handle. Positioned new handle on dryer making sure it fit properly in it's slots and installed screws into mounting brackets. Worked perfectly.