FCGD2000LS0 Frigidaire Dryer - Instructions

1. unplug the dryer, remove the aluminum vent and move it to an area that has a lot of elbow room.
2. remove the top lid with a flat screwdriver. It seems that the top lid was being held by 2 metal clips on each end.
3. on the right hand side removed the 2 wires from the front face of the dryer. this is the switch for the open door sensor. remember which wire goes where.
4. the on the left and right side will be one screw and one metal clip, unscrew and pop the front panel with a flat screwdriver.
5. in front of the drum remove the plastic clip that is used as a guide for the drum to be in place.
6. look in the drum and there is 3 screws that form a triangle shape. remove the screws.
7. remove the belt from the drum. inspect the belt. replace if necessary.
8. lift up and pull out the drum.
9. remove the rear drum assembly and replace it with the new parts.
10. repeat in reverse and your done.
It took me 40 minutes the first time i replaced the rear drum assembly then i forgot to hook the belt up correctly and i unassemble the unit in 5 minutes fix the belt and assemble the unit in 5 more minutes. Now the wife is happy.

just put it on in 5 seconds!

After unplugging the dryer, disconnecting it from the vent, and moving into an open work area, I popped the top open with the blade of a screwdriver, disconnected the two wires that connect to the door switch, then lifted the front panel (with the door) up and away from the drum. Next, I lifted the drum out of the worn rear bearing assembly and lowered it into the dryer in order to release tension on the belt. I then removed the entire drum by carrying it forward and out of the way. I then removed the old bearing assembly, which was loose and covered with metal dust. After cleaning the area with a dry cloth to remove the old grease and metal dust, and vacuuming all the lint off *everything*, I installed the new bearing assembly with a 5/16" nut driver, being careful to position the provided ball-bearing between the plastic bearing assembly and the outer clip. The little ball-bearing is very important, as it is the drum's only path to ground, and prevents the build up of static electricity as the drums spins. I then filled the new bearing assembly with the provided grease. Everything is easy up to this point, but the difficult part for me was removing the old hub from the drum and re-attaching the new one. It is held on by three screws and they become seated very tightly. After loosening them and removing the old hub from the drum, attaching the new one prvoed difficult as well, as the screw-holes in the new hub are not threaded to fit the screws. The screws muct be forced to cut a thread as you install them, which requires a great deal of force. After installing the new hub and putting the new belt (pruchased separately) around the drum, the next step is to reinstall the drum by lifting it in through the front of the dryer and positioning the new hub over the new bearing assembly and pressing it down into place. It will gently "snap" into place as it seats. Then, on the back side of the dryer, I removed the vent panel by removing the two screws that hold it in place and positioned the new drive belt (loosely dangling around the drum) over the motor's drive wheel and behind the sring-tensioned idle arm. Then it is a simply matter to reinstall the front panel by genly lifting the drum and sliding the door opening inside it, then reseating all the little clips that hold the front panel in place. I then pressed the top back into place, reconnected the vent hose, plugged it back in and checked for operation. My fifteen year-old dryer now works like new!

First I was shocked to receive my part the very next day after ordering. The new timer knob went on as easy as you please. I just matched the flat side of the spindle to the flat shaft of the timer knob.

Before this fix which worked beautifully, I tried replacing the flame sensor which did not work. To read that story, search under part number PS459818 (Flame Sensor). Our model is a Westinghouse, so access to the unit is a bit different than the other stories. It's a stacked front-loader sitting on top of a washing machine.

1. Open the little front door (lower left side) by unscrewing the little screw right below it. The door will pivot and slide out vertically.
2. Disconnect the electrical main lead coming from the back of the unit (just in case).
3. Close the gas switch lever on main gas pipe coming from the back on left side (just in case).
2. Remove 2 phillips screws on top of the metal bracket holding the two coils. The screws have to be removed completely along with the bracket. It's easy, they are right in front and there is room for the screwdriver. Use a thin long one instead of one with multiple bits to better align with the screws, which are very close to the coils.
3. The two coils slide right out and are very different so it's easy to keep them straight. Remove electrical connectors before or after removing the coils (I marked the plastic on top with a sharpie to keep them in the right orientation).
4. Drop in the two new coils and reconnect them to the electrical leads.
5. Reconnect main electrical lead from back (match wire colors)
6. Reopen gas lever on gas pipe.
7. Drop in front cover at an angle, tilt vertically and put screw back underneath. Use magnetized screwdriver or a piece of scotch tape to hold the screw or it might fall off the screwdriver.
8. Voila'. It worked.

This website is great. Our dryer is a Westinghouse bought in 1991 (almost 20 years old!) and with this fix it's just like new. In 1994 we used parts bought here to fix our washing machine (Westinghouse LT350RXW1). That machine is now 15 years old and still going!

It was very, very simple... I just had to find two screws ( that were not included)...no problem...

Remove top panel with large flat screwdriver and 2 screws in back.Remove bottom panel with 2 screws.Release belt tensioner and remove belt.Remove 3 screws in center of drum inside.Remove drum. Remove rear bearing by pulling up on assembly.Replace all parts in reverse order.

Simple. Just order a new timer knob and fit perfect and snapped right on. Problem solved! = )

Main problem was the bearing, replaced the belt and felt seal as well
The video instruction was very helpful
Was easy with basic mechanical aptitude
Dryer running great now
All parts from Partselect.com
Have ordered from them before and would order from them again

Just snap into place

Replaced rear drum bearing, drum support bearing & drum belt. Still very noisy. Will order new motor & see if that does the trick.

Popped in the new door catch! Tightened the hinge screws( which work loose and allow the door to droop. The reason the catch broke!) Also put red Loctite on the screws in an attempt to keep them from backing out again! Working great so far!!!

I took the new door catch out of the packaging and just snapped it in place it was easy peasy and took less time than opening the package

Replace rear bearing, found Exhust tube seal broken. Went ahead and replaced Drum belt & Idler arm assembly. Works like New !

As others have described in more detail... I lifted the top, removed the 2 screws holding the front panel (one on each side, inside the control panel on either side - not the easiest to get at, but not too bad), popped the clips holding the front panel in place and removed it. With the front panel off, the location of the coils is obvious (lower left side). The only challenging aspect of this repair is that the 2 screws holding the coils in place are really torqued in so it was crucial to use the exactly correct size screwdriver and not let the screwdriver slip while unscrewing those screws. Actually swapping out the coils took seconds, of course they have to go in exactly the same way as the old ones. I did take a few minutes extra to vacuum out years of lint from the inside of the dryer. Overall, much easier and cheaper than I was expecting and now I know where everything is inside the cabinet.